body work and a little customizing for you

Canada Nissan Automotive
1

Hey Guys just offering my painting talents again its kind of a repost but now for more than just rims etc.

If you want your car done.
I can show you how…, OR do it for a price$$.

Hey You…
Mr. 4" hole in the door 2" deep crease in the quarter…it’ll cost more than a guy with the basic buff & polish, door re-clear etc.

Otherwise I also do body work and refinishing through to show shine as well as wet sanding to 2000 grit and polish.

I can polish rims…it sucks…do it yourself… after I get the 6-800 grit finish on there (save the money) as its pretty much just polishing paste from there.
18" 5 stars take about 2-3 hrs each.

Get yer lips done by a semi-pro…lol sounds dirty…love it!

I can also
fix dulled paint (not pink that used to be red, nobody can)
fix a scratch.
Re-clear a door - 1/2 car or paint to match (if paint is available)
buff your headlights… (LOL)
spoiler install adaptations & Mods available too.
etc.

Door handle smoothing: May take up to 2 days (sat & sun) due to excessive booze.
and it will be the quick / dirty way with door skin epoxy (no welding).
(usually good for 3-4 yrs)

SOME Fiberglass work: Available just not very good at it “YET”
re-inforce and repair bumper covers (usually not a problem)
speaker pods etc.

ugly + bondo = good.
like chicks with big glasses.

I do not mean use 1 gallon of bondo to fix a dent.
(after the 1/8" to 1/4" thick mark look at replacement)

parking lot dings are better fixed by “ding king” they do a decent job…really!!

otherwise willing to teach too. (yes fer free).

just wanna help and meet as I am pretty bored!

2

how much would you charge to repaint my side skirts…they are peeling…they anre urethane side skirts from wings west…my car btw is a 1992 300zx

3

$150 plus materials. for a regular (factory look) finish.
FULL and Proper sand, prime & re-paint. You can get the materials yourself if you like. I’ll teach you how to do it too
It will take 1 Saturday.

Whats your paint code & year.
has it been re-painted before?

Silver is not very often a problem.

if you have a need for show finish…
(wet sand to 1500+ and polish)
add $120 minimum 1 week wait to come back for the wetsanding and polishing.
some shops will do this right away after a baking…
…I do not bake…I use the Ultra violet hardeners… so waiting a week ensures the paint has fully hardened…in the mean time it just looks a little dull…(also no car washes for a couple of days).

if its a custom colour I will have to go to my supplier and have it mixed special. special = $$

4

ALL be warned!!!

If you have a factory colour and its available from crappy tire…the mix is usually a very good match and therefore NO PROBLEM.

Candy’s, “heavy Pearls” and Kameleon are a severe problem to match.

Scientifically…
barometric pressure will make the flakes align differently. (30 degree angle not 42 degrees). it causes the pressure difference in the can to also cause a difference in the static charge imbued on the paint as it flows through the nozzle.
the static charge holds the paint in place until it “HARDENS” or flashes.

English…
it will look right under regular lighting… but stong brightness and coloured
sunsets, sunrises & parking lot lights can or will make the difference show up sometimes very clearly.
(ever see the factory silver audi A6 rear bumpers!?! bleh)
your repainted hood looks “blue-er” or slightly darker… why??
Thats what happened… the evil barometric pressure.

Pearl white is the worst…most shops will reccomend a full re-paint to be safe… if they dont…I’ll bet they dont care about their work enough to buff polish and re-clear a section before they try to colour match it.
and even then it will only be good and close.

just remember that ANY paint colour match will only be as good as the can is mixed & the weather allow.

Kameleon paint is never a good idea…
get your front end repainted after an accident and you’ll find that the “flip” between (as an example) gold and blue USED to happen at a 45 degree angle??..not any more…ita at a 28degree angle and clearly at a very different intensity.
only one of the 2 colours may “match” the others look washed out…

Tons of problems.

best colours to match are in this order

blue
green
purple’s
grey metallics
silver’s (metallic)
gold’s…I just hate gold…otherwise its the same as silver…

white (not often a true white…blue is often added)
black (second last because of pearls often mixed in…no pearl less problems)
red…(last because of “bleaching” “pinking”)

“pinking” or “paint death” or “bleaching” is only fixable by re-painting.
a buff and polish will make it look much better but a close look will show that you removed most of the MILKYNESS. And it WILL COME BACK!!

These Colour matching rules are true at any reputable body shop.

Try these things to train your eyes:
look at cars in the mall parkinglots after the sun goes down…
you will see the colour differences
memorize everything about how this looks.
then look at many of the bumpers of newer cars…they are often painted off sight and shipped to the factory.
you will see a very similar kind of colour difference.

why do they do this??? the rest of the damn car is painted at the factory!!
put it on loose if you haveto…

Also many factory paint jobs are gravity and pump fed through a sprinkler type system. this leaves a terrible finish suffering horribly from deep orange peel and sometimes “deflation” its almost like a sag but more in the metalic or pearl…quite rare though.

Nissan’s Black shows some really bad orange peel
ferds bad for black on their pickups too

5

I have cut and polished red cars that had turned pink and they do come right back if they’re a single stage, but single stage is old, and everything these days is base clear.

you can match pearls, 3 stage paints and other difficult colours by either doing a blow-in, or fading in the base coat and then re clearing the whole panel. as long as you’re close with the colour match, no one will ever be able to tell where you sprayed your base colour. this is a standard practice in any “reputable” body shop, but it takes a lot of skill and a quality spray gun. i worked in a cadillac dealership body shop for 2 years and we definatly did not repaint entire Escalades in 3 stage white lightning because it’s too hard to match.

6

kazzxtrismus … add me in msn if you have it so i can talk to you there dellromero@hotmail.com or give me your number so i can give you a shout.

7

how much to
buff my headlgihts
and clean re do my rims paint the spokes they are 18*10.5

8

no I’m sure you didn’t…just like any DEALER you probably just made a mess of the guys car"

lol just kiddding. seriously just kidding!!

look we both know that a heavy metallic black will (can) turn brown “LOOKING” in the sun if mixed by a noob with a princess auto spray gun and cheap materials (2002 saturns).

Most of these guys dont have BRAND NEW cars, their paint has faded (at least a bit) scratchs, swirls, chips etc

Nobbody in their right mind can say that a true pearl white…
…silver base with 3 - 5 coats of tinted heavy pearl then clear coat is easy to match for all aspects of the job…
colour shift / metallic & pearl size / lay angle / sag / orange peel / fade / bleach / and finally changes in quality of materials…all of these things will change or not be the same as new in 5 yrs

Do I have the $50,000 machine for mass spectal analyzation to match perfectly? NO.

do they wanna pay extra for me to have that…probbably not

look guys you wanna spend $500 to get some monkey to spray base clear black on your spoiler…go ahead…go to the dealer… I do it for $150…

I’ll make my shovel look just as good and then use it to dig a small grave for your wallet and common sense. (For $cheap$ to boot!)

a 5+yr old pearl white paint job can be matched with the computer and when you get your car back it’ll look “good enough” (for most)…
…I can see it differ… so can lots of other folks…

GM is the worst for saying it matches…when it doesn’t PERIOD…

Drive by one of their lots and take a close look.
i’ll bet a minimum of 15% of the cars on the lot have plastic trim that doesn’t match…BRAND NEW!!!

…oooh suuuure their both “crack ho” purple…but 1pc has more crack,
and 1pc has more ho…test me.

and after years of putting cars together they still don’t respect the customer enough to make the friggin paint match!!!

I’d rather orange peel over “not matching”…any day… at least I can wet sand it out…

Anyhow THIS “KIND-A-MATCH” IS PROBBABLY the best you can expect from MOST bodyshops.

and the old single stage bleachouts “pinkies”…went pink again after year…all the time…guarantee’d…PERIOD.

9

a chimp can do rims…I’ll show you on one and you can do the rest yourself…THIS IS FREE!!
otherwise I’ll take a closer look and let you know…no probs tho

Headlight buffing $20.00 for outside only…no wet sand.
for
$40 ill give you your own pad and show you howto DIY and show you where to get your own buffer for cheap and show you how to fix a small scratch for yourself and show you how to smoke cigarrets like a PRO! and wetsand a little…I’m not buying anyone headlights.

as we can all tell I ramble…this means free info for you… I DONT CARE its not the secret level 5 orgasm technique of chakra manipulation out of the book of tantra

its paint…just listen to the bodyshop guys cry…ya well charge the BMW boy $200/hr and the rest of us $50 and we’d come back

10

self bump!
it’ll make me go blind!

11

kazz, you’re PUMPED full of information; everything you say is greatly appreciated! In the future though, can you spend a bit more time on your posts?.. It’s hard to read at times! :stuck_out_tongue:

By the way, what kind of pads do you use with your rotary… Presta/Edge by any chance?.. :smiley:

12

I use almost all 3m pads for any of my buffing and polishing disposables.
I use Only the Farecla buffing compounds for paint work (g3 will allways get you the right finish) but I haven’t needed to pick up any for a few years so it may be discontinued.

I use the standard white brown and red bars for raw MATERIAL polishing…
a la refinishing a painted aliuminum rim through to full polish.

13

Heres some tips for anyone interested in trying out some of what I have offered.

Wet sanding is the only way to go to get a show finish on anything.
I do at least 600 800 1000 1500 and then into the buffing compunds as a standard process for any type of polishing…paint or raw metal.

2000 grit is feasable on paint work…but then your into bragging rights about how much you spent on the paint job…besides it’ll take 1500 sheets to do 1 car…lol (probaby true)

many would say its not necessary,… but I find you just dont get the DEEP shine, reflection, and gloss when you skip any of the steps.

a full SHOW paint job on any front fender from 400 grit sanding (down to the metal in spots)…through to the wax job is like 6-8 hours minimum.

wet sand (an already painted) 1/2 car from 800 through to wax job is like 8
hours… minimum

this will give it the true mirror finish…no wavy’s (orange peel) no swirls no nuthin.
TRUELY like when your car is wet and there is no wind…verrry sexy…

this is also impossible to keep looking really good…drive on a dirt road even once and you’ll regret it

Washing your car will cause an ulcer as you wait / hope for water to do
90% of the work… as even the tiny’est bit of sand gets into the shammy, cloth, or mitt and you will see every hand movement you made.

You will then have learned the lesson of using ONLY A NEW SHAMMY EVERY TIME you wash a show car.

PLESE PEOPLE… TELL ME YOU KNOW NOT TO USE A SPONGE TO WASH YOUR CARS,… RIGHT???

14

^^^
So true. I wouldn’t recommend wetsanding on anything but a show-queen though. Wetsanding of that nature will cause nothing but premature-clearcoat failure.

I also find it ironic that the people who own trailerqueens will dish out vast amounts of money on a custom paint job–only to wipe it down with a paper towel and windex before shows… at least some try, and glaze the hell outa the paint!

Makes me -----> :frowning: on the inside… just a little

P.S Hey, you’re OG like my boss… you both like the old-school chemicals! J/K… they work wonderfully, but I like the new stuff. :stuck_out_tongue:

15

ya,
I been doin this crap for 15 yrs now.
I go with what works best for my technique…

everone else should do the same…do what works best for you!

16

i have a friend that needs his front and rear bumper painted to the nissan orange. the ones you see oem on murano, 350z, etc… how much would it cost for just basic and for the whole works.

17

if Crappy tire has the colour (read paint code) in a spray can I can fix / match it (as good as the mix is) with a full base clear re-do from
$150/bumper (you buy the materials & Paint)

If it’s a super freaky body kit maybe an extra $25-$50/bumper…
$50 is a really wild bumper tho.

I will gladly do custom work including ghosted graphics / flames / techno flames for extra if he wants the (close enough style) match to look intentional.

if there is a lot of pearl in it (which I know it does)…
it can match pretty damn good but…
at worst it’ll look like the chevy cobalt’s in silver…their bumpers are supposed to match but I say they don’t…80% of the time.

18

Here are some links to the kind of match and “ghosting” I’v been talking about

GM’s “Close enough” match: (this is right from the factory!!)

http://www.goodwillsusedcars.com/photos/000_2450.JPG

Ghost flames:

techno flame:
http://www.bigjonpaints.com/big%20jon%20paints_files/fender_one.jpg

both of these custom style techniques can be done to make the kind of “close enough” match look intentionally custom.

usually the preferred technique is to do a “blend” or “blow” in so that the colour difference is a slow change over a long distance.

small round or quare spots (under 6" x 6") are better suited to the “blow in”

Larger rectangular or oval spots are best suited to the “blend”

I didn’t do any of the work in these pic but they are what was readily available in a gooogle pics search.

I have only done the blow in and blend and techno flame styles of work before…

I dont have much appreciation for the old style flame style jobs.
BUT
The newer style that “REALLY LOOKS REAL” I would love to try!
that said it takes like 10+ hours just to do the flaming… in a proper shop!
so count on this type of work costing a fortune!

19

Hey I no from experience, canadian tire doesnt stock all the generic paint brands, if your like me for example and have a Altima with that greenish-blue paint, they dont have it any bigger than a pen. But if your in need of more quantity, there are shops that will custom mix the paint and put it into a 16oz spray can for $20, bit pricy, but well worth it if you need it. Only shop i no of rit now is Cawthra Automotive, www.cawthraautomotive.com, just thought you should no.

20

ya thats who nI get my paint from…

go there get yer paint mixed… i’ll spray it i you’r squeemish