Ok, first off, I am looking for a good boost controller that could be adjusted from the inside that will have minimal spiking. I drive during the day, but more so at night (spike time), so this is a serious concern for me, since I don’t want to blow my shit up while cruising. I do not want to drop 6 bills on an AVC-R, I am I interested in the best bang for my buck controller that can be changed on the fly, so I can adjust to various conditions (temp, weather, etc). Any suggestions? I have been leaning towards the Profec B but want to see what else is out there. Don’t recommend HKS, spikes waaay too much.
Now some RB25 stuff. Stock boost doesn’t do it for me anymore. I took my time to learn the car on it, and now it’s time to move on a bit. I am wondering what is the max amount I can boost it stock. I have heard of 14lbs, but my concern is leaning out. Also, is it possible to swap out the ceramic exhaust wheel for a turbo one, eliminating the risk of blowing it up? I have heard this claimed before but I want to know if it is true. I figure I should be good at 12-14lbs with an oil cooler in the summer. If I can find a way around the ceramic wheel I wouldn’t mind going a bit higher like 16 or so lbs, but then fuel would definitely be an issue.
How much do you think it’d cost to get the injectors reflowed to 750cc? Shit is mad expensive on these engines.
Haha. I may sell the car if things go sour. Deep down inside I love the car too much to want to sell it just yet. I may be faster in the straights with more power, but like hell I want to touch your cornering speeds!! Not yet. I will gladly push it a bit to take anyone that steps to me except you. When the time is right, I will go all out with you.
I can’t wait man. I learned a lot about myself, my car, and it’s powerband. I want to see your line and foot work from the passenger seat. I stl can’t believe your entry speeds man.
You’re definitely my main target. As long as I can afford to run my car, I will be out till sunrise improving. I didn’t slack to go from not being able to back my car out without stalling, to hanging with you in two months.
rofl i just picked up some hawk hp + pads so i wont have anymore brake fade hopefully and i’ll be running 16x8 fd or gtr wheels with 225 width azenis oh and i have a boost contoller on the way
HI, there , Feint. I’m no expert on those engines but, 6 years ago when researching to install one I did learn about those ceramic turbos. leave the thing at 12 pounds .I have read about people spitting the turbine out the exhaust .you may know Assasin on here. he confirmed this occurence. change the turbo if your bored with the current power level. OH ! and don’t be bouncing that thing off the redline ,as the oil pumps are known for being tempermental at prolonged periods near or at redline . you should talk to some skyline gear heads about this.
I may just get the turn knob one off Ziggy till it gets really warm. By then I am hoping to be able to afford a EGT and oil temp gauge. As long as I can keep my EGT’s down, the ceramic wheel should be fine. If my exhaust temps go too high I will know that I am leaning out and need to chil.
I am aware of the oil starvation issues, hence why I want to run an oil temp gauge and cooler in the hottest months, so that way I will know if my oil is thinning out too much. I can probably get away without a water gauge. So many things to cover…Fauck.
Toss in a race wheel and gloves
If only court didn’t drain me…:(.
Alfred, you gotta show me how you’re tuning everything sometime.
I’m running .8bar on my RB25 with stock turbo… I think that’s about 12PSi. Been running that for a couple months with no problems, still nice and rich near redline. The turbos failing at higher boost levels is well documented. My old Neo RB25 (similar turbo) powered coupe blew up on the current owner at 14-15PSi. The compressor side actually let go and the motor ate it, low compression all across now. Definitely don’t screw around with higher boost levels without getting another turbo.
And no, the praised Neo turbo isn’t actually good despite what all the fan boys say.
I have really been interested in your setup. I noticed that you’re running an SAFC-II, so m assuming you’ve adjusted you’re fuel a bit to keep it rich on higher boost? And the throttle body is relocated to drop temps I assume?
If I am convicted Tuesday and have to let my S14 go, I will probably take your S13… RB’s have stolen my heart, not sure if I could go SR.
I don’t have an SAFC2, I have an old school SAFC in it because I had it laying around, the one that just has the dials, no display. I don’t have any correction set, the stock ECU just makes it richer and richer as you get higher boost.
The old Neo powered car was running 16 psi at one point and it was still in the low 10’s at redline, the stock injectors can handle a decent amount above stock. I’m fairly sure they use the same sized injectors as the R33 RB25.
My throttle body was relocated because I HATE taking that stupid L pipe off every time you want to work on the damn thing. That and I was going straight to a FMIC so it saves a lot of ridiculous looking piping. Also we have a TIG welder at the shop and a bunch of scrap aluminum so it didn’t cost me anything more than time and a monster energy drink for Joe to weld it, haha.
Let me know if you want to check out the car sometime… if it doesn’t sell soon it’s going to get a bunch of goodies and not be for sale anymore.
EGT is just as important as a Wideband Exhaust heat is what would kill the ceramic wheel
if you are going to run higher boost levels i’d suggest something like a greddy emanage with the optional map sensor, ign control and injector control, you could even run an extra injector in the intake
there is an emanage in the fs section with the map sensor for i think $200 it would be a good buy just for playing around with
I can get a deal for an SAFC-II for the same price. The thing is, with the emanage I would be able to tune the car better because I would have control over the fuel and spark over the full RPM range. The thing is I don’t have a laptop, so tuning may be an issue. I could borrow one, I just wouldn’t be able to monitor live data like I could with the Apexi. With the Apexi I could do work on the fly, but I think I need a MAF to use it, and I have a MAP as you noted.
I can use the Profec e01 as my on-the-fly emanage programmer, but it’s 700 new. At 900, I can probably find a used Power FC with commander for that price. Unless I can find an epic deal, barely anyone on here touches the e0. It’s way more common in Japan and the US.
A wideband is important, but if I am running live data it wouldn’t be necessary I don’t think. Definitely something to have while tuning. I’m getting to the stage where an EGT is as qually important if not, more when out there because shit gets damn hot when out there. I can feel the heat in my car coming from the hotter exhaust when I have the heat on.
I have also been thinking about a fuel pressure gauge. With that I would know if I am not sending enough fuel at xRPM because my pressure is falling too much, and then could correct it through an SAFCc or emanage. My piggy back should be able to tell me that regardless, but only if I had active data running and being monitored. Oil pressure is seeming kind of important too, especially in an RB.
Fricken complications. I should just become a hard Parker.
I wish I could do that. I geniunely love driving. I have put 10K on my winter beater in two months. I just hop in and go wherever the roads take me. I sometimes spend a whole day or even weekends just driving for the love of driving. I would save so much more money on gas by hard parking, but it’s just not in me. If you said you wanted to drive across Canada starting tonight and asked me to join you, I’d be there ASAP as long as I had the money and time. Hard parking isn’t in my blood sadly.
I have considered seeing you about a chip tune as well. With the RB20 ECU I’d end up losing my VVT though. I take it RB25 ECU’s aren’t tuner friendly.
I shouldn’t get ahead of myself here. I may lose big tomorrow and have to sell my car…I’m trying to learn more of this stuff on my own, though a chip tune is so tempting.
A new netbook goes for 279 that’s what i use to tune my car you don’t need an in car fuel pressure gauge as the wideband would tell you if you were running lean or rich anyways
Chipping an rb20 computer could be the way to go but if you want to tweak your setup getting chips burned will be a pain in the ass, the tuner would have to hook up an emulator figure out where it needs fuel and change it
any kind of piggy back you can tune on the fly with a laptop just driving around town and save ignition tuning for the dyno
Wideband
Emanage with ign, inj harness and map sensor
EGT gauge
and some sort of boost controller
