Brake Guru's Please Help "Bedding Process Pads to Rotors"

NYSpeed Automotive
1

So i was reading the Brake article in this section from stoptech and it
mentions the bedding process and how important it is for a newly installed
brake system.

I just recently installed a new set of front and rear Centric Rotors along with
Axxis Deluxe brake pads, Russel stainless braided lines and motul fluid on my 2000 Integra gs-r.

I have never heard of doing the bed process nor was it mentioned in the brake
pads or rotors box. Needless to say this very important step was not completed.

I have been running this setup for about 2 months now since the install.
Is there anything i can do to stop hotspots from forming? Is it too late to try
and bed the pads?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

2

2 months, your pads are bedded by now.

left How do I properly bed-in my new brake pads?

              In order to achieve maximum brake pad life and performance, it                   is necessary to properly "bed-in" your new brake                   pads.  In general, the more aggressive a pad compound is                   (i.e. higher coefficient of friction and compound material                   density), the more aggressive the bedding in process needs to                   be.

[/left]
[left]For Carbotech Engineering’s Super Street-F (7266), Panther (1104), and Panther Plus (1106) compounds, you should use the following bedding in process:

[/left]
(1) Brake from 50mph down to 10mph using moderate pedal pressure.
Repeat this process 6 to 8 times in succession.

(2) Cool down the brakes by driving for 10-15 minutes on the highway.
Avoid having to use the brakes during this cool-down period.

                         (3)                           Repeat step (1), but use very heavy pedal pressure.
                          Brakes may fade during this set of                           braking, so please use caution.

                         (4)                           Repeat step (2).

                         (5)                           Park the car for 4 to 6 hours after the brakes are                           cooled down.
                          Allowing the pads to                           "rest" overnight is preferred.

                         <i>Cars                           with a curb weight of over 3000lb. may require one                           "light" track session to sufficiently heat                           up the pads, followed by a good cool down period, in                           order to ensure both pad longevity and maximum                           potential brake torque.</i>
3

too late to do anything now, but next time just follow their directions

4

So how much of a difference does this make? Given how many millions of cars get new brakes every year and compared to how many people do this I’m inclined to believe that it’s one of those ideas that makes sense on paper but, for a street car at least, is a waste of time and gas. A track car on the other hand…

5

meh, I dunno. My last time to the track I put on new pads/rotors the day before without a chance to go in a parking lot or anything. My strategy was to take it easy on the practice sessions. Well third or fourth lap in got a little heat in them and ended up jumping into a 18" deep puddle of 40* water. Probably not the best thing for them. They were fine though.

I know that part of it is you want to gas of the vapors from manufacturing that may be in the pad compound.

Hawk’s instruction said something about transferring the pad compound to the rotor. I am not really sure about the theory behind this, since it is always under friction aren’t you wearing off that layer all the time. Perhaps it promotes pad wear over rotor wear.

Of course getting all the molecules heated up and happy in their new home is going to give it a longer life, just as with heat cycling tires.

6

Axxis deluxes might fall apart if you try and properly bed them. It’s a cheapo organic pad made partially with asbestos.

7

Actually it does make a difference with performance pads, if they are not bedded
you will compromise the life expectancy and the effectiveness of the pads.

On the other hand everyday OEM and OEM-replacement pads, they’re built to last
for a very long time and not for performance, so it’s not quite as important to bed them in.

From what shockwave is saying, the axxis pads I bought are not considered performance pads?

One other question, If the pads are not bedded
properly Will the Rotors life expectancy be lessened as well?

I’m just wondering if I should just get new pads, It’s cheaper
to buy new pads now than to buy new rotors and new pads the next time I change the brakes.

8

Your pads should cost more money than your rotors.

For example my front pads cost $170/pair, my front rotors were $40/pair.

Rotors are a replacable item.

9

Actually i paid about $120 for all 4 centric e-coated rotors/Non of that cross drilled crap!
and $55 for all 8 pads

As you said though if i were
to get more aggressive pads I’m sure they would be more.

What pads and rotors are you running Z?

10

usually after I bed the pads there is a blueish film on the rotor. Does it make a difference? probably not noticeable for every day driving.

11

I feel like a broken record, maybe I should become a Carbotech spokesman or something.

For rotors I use cheap Chinesse blanks, usually from NAPA.

Pads, Carbotech:
http://www.nyspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20394&highlight=carbotech

As you can see a set for all for all four coners even in street compound is $200+. I am usually a cheap fuck, but in this case you get what you pay for.

As for the Z, metal to metal. It is sitting in storage and won’t get the love it desrves until I get out of school.

But in your case I am sure you will be fine. Yes there are benefits to buying a quality blank rotor that will last for more than one set of pads, but my philosophy is they are disposible.