Ah, yea that be tough. Autogeek is usually quick though, couple days.
Happy 7424xp user here. Have an assortment of pad sizes and densities although for polishing I tend to stick with the orange pads. I have had great luck with Poorboys polishes but I can’t deny how well the Meguiars M105 and M205 work. I keep both of them in my kit at all times and it’s nice to be able to go and pick them up locally.
Im looking for someone to detail/paint correct my 2011 wrx. Its mostly just fine swirl marks on the paint and the factory orange peel. Shouldnt be very hard at all. How much do you think you would charge?
If you are asking me about paint correction i have to pass on that for a few weeks until i can pick up a 7424 Polisher. My regular buffer finally shit the bed yesterday with smoke pouring out of it… I would recommend boost creep i have seen his work and it is A+
I’d do it for no less then $300. When you mention “Shouldnt be very hard at all” you really have no idea. It’s not real difficult work but to do a car properly it can take upwards of 8-10 hours.
Exactly.
This is why I don’t detail as many cars anymore. Only higher end stuff.
I spend 8-16 hours on a car, $150 isn’t worth it.
x3 Paint Correction is balls work takes alot out of the person doing it.
my question for you guys doing the paint correction do you do one panel at a time step by step or do you do the enitire car step by step.
I have done it both ways.
Well, you would do each stage, panel by panel.
Right but i have done panel by panel doing the entire process all at once on just the panel then move to the next panel. I dont know what made me try it that way just decided to do something different.
I’ve used a bunch of stuff and I like them the most, They sell packages of stuff including the porter cable. They might not be the cheapest though.
I do the every step of the paint correction on the entire vehicle, panel by panel (usually 1’x1’ sections actually). Here’s my normal rundown for a car in need of severe paint correction:
1: Wash
2: Claybar
3: Heavy polish/compound of choice (M105/SSR3/etc) on an gold or orange pad
4: Medium polish (SSR2.5/etc) on orange pad
5: Finial polosh (SSR1/M205/ect)
6: Clean entire vechile with isopropyl alcohol
7: Glaze (Poor boys black hole works awesome for me)
8: Sealant (Poorboys EX-P/etc)
9: Wax/top coat (Poorboys Natty’s blue/etc)
10: If you want to go real crazy top it all off with Collonite 845
Wheels/tires:
P21S cleaner
Poorboys wheel sealant
Wait how do you clean the car with alcohol, on a towel? what the reason for that step?
When I had my G20, first car I ever fully detailed, took me about 8-9 hours, my hands were so fucking cramped and numb, back was fuckin gkilling me… Not even worth the fucking money to me if I was getting paid to do it :rofl
Adams can be a bit pricey but the customer service is top notch and i don’t understand how you can correct paint by doing the whole car at once. it needs to be done panel by panel. some spots need more attention and finesse than others. I don’t mind doing it though it’s like therapy for me.
Yes, after polishing I clean the entire car with alcohol. I spray it on a clean microfiber only used for the alcohol cleaning step. This ensures that all polish is fully removed as well as any other kind of contaminates like dust/dirt/grease. This will ensure that the next steps will adhere to the paint better and last longer.
i didnt mean all at once i meant do entire car step by step
Example
compound entire car panel by panel
after medium compund panel by panel
Etc.
its hard to explain while typing mind moves faster than fingers
Nick is correct.
Collonite 845 is also a little known secret. Stuff is amazing. Hard as a rock.
How do you clean/dry your pads properly Ryan? That’s the only thing that still bugs me. I have the snappy’s pad cleaner and a bucket but I just feel that I’m killing pads much quicker then they should be. Any tips?
Nick, I havn’t nailed down a good system. I’ve used that pan cleaner and the bucket routine and it does OK, nothing great though.
I honestly end up buying new pads pretty frequently, especially if it’s a higher end car.
I use Adams all purpose cleaner spray on a good amount work around in hands rubbing the pad. then wash it out with water and let air dry… good as new.