I have a complete KA --> SR harness from Varun. We’ve hooked up the obvious, but there are still a few couplings, ground wires and vacuum hoses leftover.
Everything’s in place, bolted up, and the fluids are in, BUT we don’t wanna take any chances on startup.
I’m hoping someone with an SR or the know-how could come up and check it out. Beer and pizza is on me. 
you’re in barrie? pick me up tommorow around 7pm and i’ll see what i can do for ya, but i need pizza or there is a high chance i’ll starve to death and die on the spot
You’re just the dude I was hoping would reply! :bowdown:
I’m in downtown Barrie and I can pick you up anytime you’re ready… just gimme a shout.
416-834-2036
thanks,
Emilio
Is Thursday evening any good for you? my bro has to work tomorrow night and he really wants to be here to find out what’s up.
otherwise, tomorrow will be just fine.
if anyone’s planning to cruise up to the Barrie area this weekend we could
really use some help with the SR and hopefully get her started. :fingersx:
Kosta
705-737-3145
Emilio
416-834-2036
call anytime for directions
ok… i can’t wait another minute to turn the key.
i’m hoping i’ve hooked up all the vital connections, although there are these
three ground wires/washers still dangling around the battery/fusebox area
(not sure if they go to the block or chassis… does it matter?)
the thick orange line from the throttle body goes to the charcoal can?
vaccuum lines from master brake cylinder are not hooked up…
mafs is still missing a line or two…
is it safe to attempt to start the car?
can anybody confirm the vital connections necessary to safely start the car?
:-k
Grounds: Easy. Just bolt it up on the chasis/body somewhere.
Vacuum: You should hook this up to its proper connectino or you are going
to get unpredictible idle or worse yet, your car won’t run as expected.
Charcoal canister is just for emissions. You can probablly get away with
plugging it so as long it’s not vacuum related line.
MAF is missing a line? You mean a wire? Like vacuum, either your car will
run like shit or not run at all.
Don-t be half-assed. Try to get it all hooked up as much as you can.
thanks Gonad, but i was hoping for more specific information.
(ie. the orange vaccuum line from the throttle body goes to _______ )
everything in my engine bay came from a clip, so i realize it should be
pretty straightforward, but this is my first attempt at a complete swap so
forgive me for being cautious and asking a few important questions.
oh and trust me… there’s nothing half-assed about me or my car.
i’m very thorough and meticulous with everything i do… it’s just my nature.
better safe than sorry, y’know.
is it the big line from directly under the throttle body? that one goes to the canister, you can block it off. before you start is you should disconnect the crank angle sensor and crank it over for a few seconds to make sure you have oil pressure.
don’t worry about the charcoal canister line, im running my sr with no canister and it runs just fine. The vacuum line from the brake master cylinder goes to the back of the motor on the intake side.
As far as the MAF goes, i would make sure its wired correct because your car will run like shit.
One more thing i would do is before you start it, disconnect the CAS and crank the engine over until you see the oil light on the dash go out. Once it goes out plug it back in and start her up!
hope this helps.
thanks guys… what about the ignitor? it’s been hanging from the motor since i pulled it from the clip, but i have yet to plug anything into it. I was told it’s not necessary to hook it up to any lines or plugs as it has to do with a boost control solenoid which i’m not using…does this sound right?
You NEED the ignitor. It plugs into the harness close to where the stock boost sensor would plug in. You can’t miss the two plugs, they will only plug into the ignitor.
If you are going to try to start it with vac lines disconnected (brake booster and evap can) you can do that, but you will need to plug the lines so they don’t suck air.
It will run without the MAF but there is really no point, won’t rev up and that is part of the goodness of the first start… Fix it.
Ground from the battery T off goes to the intake manifold. Grounds by the T-stat bolt to the head right there.
:D/ …i’m boostin’, baby!
well, i turned the key for the first time and the car actually started. not only that, it idles smooth, maintains temperature and doesn’t leak anywhere (impressive considering the custom P/S lines and heater hoses we fabbed up).
i’ll try and get some pics up soon 
hey man, congrats! Hopefully, I’ll get to see your car soon… when I picked up the 5spd. swap parts from you, the SR was still hanging from the hoist hehe…
The only things I need to do now are cut the SMIC hole in the pignose, install 3" downpipe, cat, catback and Walbro fuel pump.
Will I be ok to drive down to T.O. with stock fuel pump, and no SMIC vent? of course I’d drive it easy and not boost. :dunno:
Yes and yes.
stock fuel pump should be replaced asap, you can run with stock, but you are missing lots of power.
As far as unvented SMIC well, take it from me, its fine :lol:
besides you dont even need an IC at stock boost.
excellent… :thumright: