Clean it up and get it powder coated. Raceland rulz
then they used shit wire, little or no post flow after the weld, or didnt even use ss filler wire… or all the above.
A guy at work has a Jeep and bought some stainless $550 brush guard for the front, same thing all the welds are rusting.
BAAAAMMMMMM! :number1
Any idea how long before this mystery shop opens…?
fuck that, the luggage rack costed me like 30 bucks cause they sent me a replacement and i sold that shit. i was thinking about plastidiping it but i’m too lazy for even that.
technically they are open. this would be a new offering for them, and I know they are backed up as it is. Then they will need to probably expierement and get used to the process befor taking on customer work.
what color do you want to do anyway? If you need it done asap, there are powder colors that look very much like ano.
I want black chrome…or titanium black, what have you. To match this:
When I have the part in hand I can bring it
in my mind there are 2 versions of “matching this color”…
Adjacent panels
vs
hub cap color against some other part 5 feet away
Powder and even anodizing isnt like paint… I would never put my name on a color match guarentee for either. no. way.
If you want to match the cap to the valve cover/plug cover… I can get it in the ball park close enough that it will look good installed on the car, but I highly doubt holding one up to the next it would be a perfect match.
Perfect example I did a strut bar for albany speed. Gave me a blue anodized wheel cap like you have there. I took a chrome base, diluted some candy blue with some satin clear and nailed it. Looks like one shade off and a little different on the gloss level part vs part… but on the car you would never know. Ill get the pic off the pc at the shop and post it tonight.
Anodizing aluminum colors is not in the anodizing process when forming the oxide, but rather the secondary dyeing process with a subsequent sealing process. Color matching can be a bitch because pending the original manufacturer they may have produced their own dye formula which you could spend dozens of attempts trying to figure out. Not cheap and not worht the hassle in almost every case.
I can do small batch anodizing but I never keep the acids and cleaners in stock. I always order fresh stuff for the small batches I’ve done and immediately send it out for disposal afterwards. The acids are dangerous to keep around in anything other than proper storage equipment, which I don’t have here. Toxic vapors
Ok well when I receive this oil cap I will swing down with it and the coil cover. They will be in close proximity (I’m sure you’re familiar with my engine bay) so the closer the better but I’m fully aware of the inability to match exactly. I’m not too much of a stickler
**edit: Can you do just the top of the radiator cap I’m getting too? Like heat up and peel the sticker off, color it, then put decal back on?
cool sounds good. I might be able to remove and reuse the decal… gotta see it to tell but thats a good idea.
Rcvd the cap yesterday. It’s the wrong one (they sent me a snap-in when it should have been a thread in…so I may need to send it back) but I can bring it anyways