+1. Those are all your basic ricer mods. AKA, the car has almost certainly been beat on most of it’s life. The engine going at 33k is another big tipoff. But I suppose we all have to be young and stupid and buy someone else’s headache at least once to learn. Good luck with that.
EDIT: Not trying to be a dick, just trying to let you learn from the mistakes many others (including myself) have made before you so you don’t have to.
+1.
I told you man, if you want a nice speed6, I’m giving mine back next week. 15k miles and not beat on. (99% of the time ;)). Just find out how to get it before I turn it in…
That is definitely not the car. Its the wrong color, wheels and state. Here is why he is selling the car:
“Before you think I’m just jumping ship, let me explain that this was a business decision. I am an owner of P3 Performance, LLC and we are an seller, installer, and tuner of aftermarket parts for cars. Our main supplier is cp-e and they make parts for Mazdas and BMWs. The other four owners of P3 all have MS6s and none of us have ever turned a wrench on a BMW. We recognized this as a deficiency and a lack of market knowledge. I am in the best position financially (which ain’t sayin’ much) to pull this off and so I bought a 335i. I ask to still be a member of this community as I will be tuning these cars for some time to come and will be working with and learning from all of you.”
Any here is what he tells me about why he feels the original engine blew:
"I don’t really understand why the original motor failed. I think it was possibly due to an improper catch can setup - I was only venting the crankcase to atmosphere instead of evacuating it like the design is from the factory. DI motors have issues with fuel leaking down the cylinder walls and shearing the oil. Mazda evacuates the crankcase to the intake manifold to pull the fuel and gunk out of the oil. The problem with this is that it is pulled from the intake mani into the motor and can cause oil knock. My original catch can was one of those plastic home depot jobs and the fuel/gunk basically ate the plastic. I had ordered a saikou michi catch can but it hadn’t arrived and in the mean time, I just plugged the intake mani side and let the crankcase vent to atmosphere. I think this possibly sheared the oil down until it wasn’t lubricating properly.
That’s one theory. Another theory is that Mazda had a quality control issue with their rods early on which is why a number of Mazdaspeed6s had rod failures but the MS3 guys haven’t.
Finally, I did a lot of datalogging of fuel cut on that motor. I would load it up in 5th or 6th at <2000 rpm and datalog the cut. Loading up the motor like that in a big gear at low rpm is probably the worst thing you can do because it puts tremendous stress on the rods and pistons. I just didn’t know that at the time. Very embarrassing.
Basically, I honestly don’t know why mine blew. It was a dealer demo before I got it and had 6700 miles on it. It was probably driven very hard as a loaner/demo so that could have contributed.
The new motor was broken in properly and has never seen boost below 3500 rpm. It is running beautifully and strong and is actually getting 2.5 more miles per gallon than the old one - which sort of lends credence to the idea that the first one was hurt somehow and wasn’t as efficient.
As to what’s been done to reduce the chances of failure, the standback has been tuned to bring on boost at later rpms and the catch can was installed properly from the beginning and emptied at every fill up. I’ve also had a dashhawk and all of my tunes have pulled some timing to completely eliminate all knock retard. My timing, knock retard, and afrs are exactly where they should be."
He has offered for me to take it to the dyno and tune it exactly the way I want it for free. He has also offered to meet me half way, or split the flight cost with me to check the car out before putting anything down.