hey guys, ok I bought my 93 hatch about a month ago but didnt really drive it except around my block a few times, did an oil change down the street and just turned the car on everyday for about an hour. The car didnt have any issues up until today. but it’s been getting warmer, so that could be why it didnt act up before.
the previous owner told me that it was overheating so he replaced the waterpump, and at the time it seemed to run fine, no overheating issues, the temp gauge would warm up to normal and stay there…
today i went to my friend’s shop to put tires/rims and do an oil change. When i was driving home afterwards, i noticed the temp gauge was a lil above normal(usually right at the middle), it was about 3/4 up rather than at the 1/2 mark.
So this leads me to believe that it wasnt the water pump that was originally causing the overheating issues.
can someone give me a list of things that could be causing the engine to heat up like this?
hmm…well if the thermostat wasnt working properly, what else would/could it affect? the heater? the temp gauge goes up to normal temp after warming it up for like 10 min? i havent really sat there timing it…
i know my heater doesnt work properly, takes like 30 min before it starts blowing warm air…guessing that is the heater core…
which is pretty good, except i dont know what i’m looking at lol…anybody have a link with pics on a how-to change the thermostat for the KA24DE engine??
i’m a super noob with mechanics…so as many pics would be best lol…if not, then…lol i’ll figure somethin out
change thermostat, mine was doing the opposite issue tho, On very cold days, my car wouldn’t warm up, the temp gauge stayed at COLD, so mine was stuck open.
Change thermostat, My 0.01cent is take off the fan, and its a easy job
hey, i was reading the FSM, and it says to drain the coolant from the block and radiator…do i just simply unscrew the drain plug? do i have to go underthe car to do this? or can it be done from the engine bay? i have a pan that i use to collect oil when doin oil changes, so i was just gonna slide it under there…so wondering if i have to jack up the car or not…
k here are the steps i thin i have to do according to the FSM(it shows for water pump rather than t-stat but skips to that part after so i’m a lil confused):
drain coolant from block and radiator.
2)remove fan coupling with fan
3)remove power steering pump drive belt, alt drive belt, air comp drive belt? do i need to remove these? or just the fan?
4)from there…i dont know what to do exactly…it just says how to inspect it…do i just unbolt that thing that is from the radiator? i think it houses the t-stat? after taking it out, i clean it, put in a new t-stat, do i have to use a “liquid gasket application”?
and do i drain ALL the coolant? or just some? if i drain all the coolant, how many litres would that be? how much would i be filling back in? is this all there is to it?
hey someone told me about “bleeding the air out” or something when i take out the old thermostat, said to run the engine without the coolant for a bit to bleed the air out…but i’ll only be draining like 2L of coolant since i’m not doing a complete flush…what does it mean to bleed the air out?
hey guys, ok i replaced the thermostat and flushed the coolant/radiator stuff out twice, 4L of water each…poured in new coolant mix, topped it up, screwed all back in…drove the car today and it still heated up when i drove normal, had to slow down n it cooled back to normal temp…so…
what else could be causing the car to overheat? or did i not “bleed” it correctly? after i topped it up, i let the car warm up, then poured more in…pressed on the upper radiator hose that leads to the bleeder hole and only coolant was coming out…so…guessing i did it right…n still overheating…
Ive never actually blead the cooling system on a ka but im assuming its just like every other car out there…Heres what i personally do to bleed the system.
Take the rad cap off and fill the rad till its full.
Top up the resivoir to the fill line.
With the rad cap still off start the engine from cold. From my experiance it should drop down about an inch, but if it drops down more no worries. Fill it up to the top and put the cap back on.
Open the bleeder screw till a solid coolant flow is coming out, close it up when done.
Let the car warm up till the thermostat is fully open, open the bleeder screw again and let out any remaining air
Top up resivour if it has gone down.
Try that and if your still having problems then there may be a different issue your having. Good luck!
hey guys…ok i thought i fixed it…i replaced the thermostat, flushed the coolant system twice, put in new coolant, bled air out by leaving the car on with the bleeder screw open, for about 40 min, until no airs bubbled out anymore…it was running completely fine last nite, i drove it around to meet friends n went driving normally…completely fine…then today i was on the highway and the temp gauge was going above normal…so i let off the pedal n just cruised around, n it went back to normal…
seems like when i gun it or rev over 3000k, it’ll overheat…is this still most likely a thermostat problem? like i could’ve not bled the air out enough?
hmm…alrite, well i dont know what is causing this thing…it overheated when i was runing the heater on low as well…so…yea…seems to overheat whenever it feels like…
so u replaced the thermostat, the waterpump has been replaced, that leaves the rad, but this is a long shot, maybe your car is running lean? check your plugs, what colour are they?