Hey i just got my SR20det swap done and apparently my connecting rods are gone. Its making a big time noise and im just wondering whats the best solution to this problem.
thanx
Well replace the Connected Rods… and might as well re-build the motor while your at it.
Where did you buy the engine or have the swap done ?
yeah thats what i thought and i got the motor through Blur Perfoance in brantford but had alot of problems with that
why isn’t there an :odvious: tag?
Got to love the shops that buy blown motors for cheap and then sell them for the cost of a good motor. They should give you a new motor as most shops will give you 30day warrnty. But if your already having problems i dout they will do anything.
So pull it out get it stripped down and do a rebuil. Mine as well get good piston, rods, bearings, headgasket, arp bolts and what ever else you crazy sr ppl do to thies motors and drive it next year.
Or just change the bearings and hope the rest of the motor is good.
yeah aite thanx i was thinkin i was goin to get the top of the line pistons and cams and everything ne ways so i guess this will speed it up lol where would b the best place to order those parts from??
Well, apart from the obvious.
If your rod bearings are done bad enough to be making audible noise, odds are your crank is taking a beating. With the rod knocking around, your cylinders may no longer be straight and true. It all depends on how long the guy in Japan (whose wrecked car the motor came out) drove it like this. The motor might even be the reason the car ended up in the wreckers in the first place.
You take a big chance in ordering motors from overseas wreckers. A leakdown and compression test won’t turn up dead bearings. Hindsight for sure, but at the very least a start up warranty helps.
If the cylinders need to be rehoned (I’m not an SR guy … can you even do this or do you need bigger sleeves?) or bored out, and larger pistons are then necessary. I always suggest buying the pistons first, so your machinist can bore the block to your actual pistons. If you just tell him to bore your motor out to .030 over you won’t get the best possible seal. Basically the pistons you buy will not all be exactly the same size. They are machined to a tolerance, and the machine shop might have a stricter tolerance. Pisons might be too loose, or too snug, even if they’re all .030 over pistons.
BEFORE you start ordering your parts, best to find out if the crank is damaged, and if so, is it saveable. Cranks can be turned down but you have to make sure to get the right bearings for your grind. If the crank has to be ground 0.010, make sure to get 10 under bearings.
As for the best parts … you’ll have to decide what you want the motor to do. Either or, odds are they’ll be coming from Japan. Just throwing a set of Sentra or NX bearings and rings at it won’t do.
Really, a total teardown is the only way at this point to know why the bearings failed in the first place. Then an overall inspection of the rest of the hardparts to check for premature wear. Cooking the con rod bearings is usually a sign of overheating or extreme stress. If the motor overheated badly enough, it might not even be worth using the motor.
It could be something as simple as dirt in the oil. It doesn’t take much to destroy a bearing.
man, mr200 is right, is it even worth trying to rebuild a motor like this, if I were you i’d be down, try as hard as you can to throw the motor back at the place where you bought it from, or at least get em to give you another one before you do anything, good luck
if its only a cylinder or 2…and you didnt drive it much since you heard the noise, you migth get away with just a simple bearing change.
however it could be much worse. Only way to tell is to pull it apart