http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=Cryo-Stop&model=Rotor
Looking for some feed back on them. Was looking for Brembo blanks and came across these. I drive the back country hills every day and heat is an issue with my pig of a car. I tend to warp rotors before I run out of pad.
Edit: Let me rephrase what I mean by heat. I don’t get brake fade. But coming down long hills does create a lot of heat. Having stop signs or lights at the bottom is not ideal with having to come to a stop.
i have heard good things about cryo-treated rotors…but i never had issues with brembo blanks on my pig of a maxima when i had it with its tiny brakes
you might want to consider removing the heat-shields behind your rotors if you’re really putting this much heat through them. imo cryo rotors are the last thing you do.
this is the order I recommend for upgrading brakes.
these are my ducts, and they work so well I have to cover them in the winter or I can’t get my factory pads up to temp:
my rotora pads are having a hard time coming up to temp in buffalo winter… they were great teh first day out when i was breaking them in… but have gotten lazier as time has went on
you might want to drop down a compound… constantly running pads below their operating temp does kill pads and rotors. It can even get dangerous because the pads can chunk and break off.
I learnt this the hard way, I’ll post picks of my Hawk HT-10s that I was stupid enough to run on the street for a couple weeks between events.
the pads i am running are street pads… they just dont have the inital bite that i was used to with the stoptechs… that and i think i may need to rebleed the system
I don’t think cooling ducts are what i need. I’m just looking for a good replacement rotor. Seems that when I use lower end rotors I always get the vibration back after a few months. During my search I happened to come across these and wanted to see if anyone has used them.
I have flushed the fluid a few times, I use Hawk HPS pads and stopping isn’t a problem. I only drive a grandprix so its not like I would be tracking the car besides running the 1/4 once in a while.
are you bedding them in? cyro rotors are not “more resistant to warping” or whatever myth you’re trying to buy into. where they do help is with extreme heat and longer life. It also happens they are probably built better then cheap chinese crap.
I would recommend stick with a name brand - brembo, stoptech, etc… but don’t bother with cryo.
and make sure you’re bedding them in correctly - or you’ll end up with deposits that will cause vibration.
Cryo rotors will withstand more heat from repeated stopping to help aid in the prevention of lateral runout (warping). Proper ducting is a must with any setup.
Cryogenically treating any ferrous metal realigns the grains of the material making it stronger and more rigid. (basically)
Speaking of proper venting, I have seen cars with venting to the inside of the rotor only.
That can’t be good.(?)
yes I do bed them in. Thanks for the info, I’ll get a set brembo blanks then.
Edit: Carnut can you still get brembo’s?
I’m confused by this… if you look at pretty much all front rotors they are designed to suck air from the inside center and pull it out through the middle. So the ideal placement of the duct is on the inside directly against the center hole.
^^ Id have to agree. Almost any duct plate that I have seen attaches to force air into the middle of the rotor.
If the ducts were right on the rotor face you would have no where for air to go , and would only be effective cooling half of the rotor.
Thats my thoughts.
EDIT: Also I thought that cryo mainly only treats the surfaces of parts, so its best for increasing wear strength, not necessarily the overall mechanical strenght of the part itself.
Dan