Well i finally got my juice with attitude installed on my 01 Cummins…well my fears have come true - weak lift pump (fuckin dodge!!):finger2:. The attitude module has a fuel pressure sensor included in the kit. I have 10psi of fuel pressure at idle, and if go full throttle i can get the pressure to drop to 2psi (this is read from the lift pump at the high pressure injection pump). I know you’re supposed to have at least 5psi at the injection pump at full throttle.
The truck has already had the factory lift pump replaced with dodge’s supposedly better retrofit. the lift pump has been relocated to inside the fuel tank rather than on the side of the block. this was replaced about a year and a half ago and only has 15k miles on it (not sure if the dealer provides any warranty on these - i have to call them). I am thinking about a permanent remedy to this lift pump problem by buying a fass kit, but i dont know what to do about the retrofit pump in the tank. can i put the fass pump on top of the pump in the tank, or do i have to pull the tank and take out the factory pump in order to use the fass kit? i really dont want to have to pull a 35gal fuel tank if i dont have to, but i assume that i am going to have to do it. i can’t believe that dodge can’t come up with a better solution to these stupid lift pumps. anybody use these fass kits that have some opinions or experience with them? also, anybody have some remedies that might work to revive my old pump. ive heard some people using 2-cycle oil mixed in their fuel to help lube the pumps, but i dont personally know anybody that has used it for any extended period of time.
I’m sure Mike with keystone will chime in on this question, but i’m sure there are lots of people on here that may have some insight and knowledge on this. any help on this is appreciated…thanx
As far as the 2-stroke oil goes … I personally dont use it or like the idea. Use a good quality fuel additive (I personally use Stanadyne Performance). Also stay away from the “ultra-low sulfur” fuel … Try to stick with the normal “low” only. This can be found at Sonoco.
Now for your liftpump … Its common on the 24v’s. Your fuel pressure readings are for sure low, and needs taken care of. Is your reading on a analog gauge? … Or is reading through the digital monitor?
As far as aftermarket pumps go … Ditch the FASS and go with an Airdog. There cheaper, lifetime warrenty, and there the same people as the FASS (Father owns FASS, Son owns Airdog)
I am running an Airdog 150gph w/ all 1/2 fuel lines on my truck and I have 30psi @ WOT (and I have a TON of fuel). I also highly recommend doing the draw staw mod, as if you dont you risk sucking the stock one closed because of the pumps performance. The only downfall to drawstaws is that you cannot run your tank below a 1/4 … Or you WILL LOSE suction & prime. To do this the tank needs dropped, so I would do it while your taking out the LP that the dealer put in there.
First, I am reading the fuel pressure through the digital monitor in the attitude. i would assume its pretty accurate being that everything is digital. Like i said, it idles at 10psi and cruises about 8-9 on the highway. it will hold about 5-6 under a harder overdrive pull but i’ve seen as low as 2psi under a high rpm, uphill pull.
Second, so i do have to pull the stock lp out of the tank to run an external kit like fass or airdog? if so…:doh::owned:
Third, do i really need to go that big with a 150gph pump? i am about as far as i’m going to go with this truck (4" MBRP, KN Intake, Juice/Attitude) besides maybe some 275 RV injectors and 35’s. I dont want to push that trans (crappy mopar transmissions) any more than what i have. Can i get away with maybe a 100gph pump and not worry about the drawstraw?
Fourth, do you think i can revive that lp and coax a little more time out of it by running an additive or is it permanently toast?
Fifth, i usually try to stick with sunoco fuels since they winterize their diesel and i dont have to buy any antigel/conditioner in the winter. plus their fuels seem to have a little more “life” in them both gas and diesel.
As far as gauges go … Analog is actually more accurate than digital … I prefer analog all day long … More accurate, easier to read at a glance, etc. But thats not here nor there.
Do you NEED a 150? … No … a 100gph will work … but the ONLY way to keep the lift pump in the tank is to put a new draw straw in, which will require dropping the tank. So you can ethier drop it and put the straw in, or drop it and pull the pump out. Pulling the pump will take less time & less work to be honest with you. The 100GPH does not REQUIRE a draw staw like the 150 does … but without the pump needs pulled.
Stay away from the K&N intake … There are GREAT for gasoline motors, but not so great for diesels. I have seen more K&N systems let debris in, than any other system.
I would go with a AFE Stage II (what I run) or a S&B system (they are cheaper than AFE). I can send you prices if you want.
Your not going to revive the LP … It is on its way out, and there is no stopping that.
i was just looking for a bit more explanation on the k&n issue. ive actually heard the same thing. ive seen many writeups on which is the best intake to buy, but none have been based on the diesel engine. although most people will say the kn is the best way to go for gas engines, some writeups will even venture to say not to use kn on daily drivers…they say its great for a race engine that only runs down the track and gets rebuilt often, but they let in too much dust/debris for daily drivers that can see upwards of 200k.
i was curious why the kn intake is different for the diesel? is it because there is so much more volume of air being pulled into the engine and high boost on the turbo?
i went with the kn b/c i had one laying around with 4" boot. i used a buddy’s afe intake to make my own cardboard template. once i measured everything out i cut out some diamond plate and made my own filter housing. i had some 4" exhaust tubing that i welded in a hole i cut to hold the filter/intake tube. spray bomb it black and u have an intake.