Hey guys
I’m about to purchase these lower control arms and I’d like to request the advise and knowledge of those who know suspension and chassis dynamics on the technical end to review these pieces.
They are the stock control arms modified with energy suspension bushings,
monoball extended studs from coleman racing,
and FK bearing spherical rod ends & jam nut.
I have been advised that they can give me about .25 more caster but I think there is more since the rod ends have been welded on the outside of the control arm which makes me question as to the strength of the unit. I’m pretty sure I get more caster so I’ll have to compare with the stock… and I’ll post pictures of that soon enough. I can’t really see the angle of the rod end but they are definitely tilted upwards, giving me possibly more control arm angle, and with the the adjustable rod end I can have much more camber.
These will be used in unison with D2 full coilovers, 12.2" wilwood brake system and HAWK HPS pads running 18" Racing Hart DH5600’s 6 spokes that weigh only 21 lb on 215/35/18 Pirelli P7000’s. I also have Customized front endlinks with urethane bushings but I’m still running the stock front sway bar.
What do you guys think? Structurally speaking he did some vertical bracing as well as some seem welding with a MIG. I have been told the CA’s have been powdercoated.
Depending on your lowering height and camber level, I wouldn’t use these unless your eXTREMELY slammed.
Caster will most basically change the how hard it might be to steer, due to decreased caster, it becomes harder to steer the car, physically. I’d much rather use adjustable TC rods to adjust my camber because you can get anywhere from -6 to +6 range with most pieces. Stock I believe is +4 and change. When you drop your car, you get more negative caster.
What these new LCA’s will allow you to do is adjust roll center. Which is something not many people can do very well. I’ve decided to stay away from adjutable LCA’s just because it’s too much to deal with ontop of the rest of the suspension.
You don’t necessarily need to know how to adjust roll center. Simply having the spacer there will bring you closer to stock suspension geometry (which you want) while lowered. What car are they for? Moonface makes a set of roll centre adjusters for S and R chassis cars.
I’ve already sent the guy an email as to what type of welder he used and at what amperage… its clearly a mig and not a tig… and correct amperage for that thickness metal stock should be at least 200a but I don’t see penetration…
Thats definitely one of the things that I’m concerned about and its a shame that the powdercoating covers it… AHH… i’ll ask him if he has shots b4 the pcoat… see if that floats.
I will be using spacers… and these will be for a nissan ******
First. It won’t matter to much since it’s already made. You can also clearly tell that he can’t weld correctly.
Second. You are wrong. unless the material is 3/8’’ thick or more. I use 130-180a MAX on 1/4’’ thick steel. 200a is a lot… Far to much for that material thickness.
Actually…
I’m right and wrong. Assuming you’re refering to TIG welding. Then I’m right.
Assuming you’re refering to MIG, Flux, or stick. It CAN be right.
I hardly ever use a wire fed type welder anymore… To boring. I’m all TIG.
So all I think about are TIG set-ups. So that’s my bad. I often forget about the differences.
200amps on a MIG, Flux, or stick isn’t overly hot. But, it’s still hotter than what it should be.
TIG welding put 70% of the heat into the work piece. Then 30% into the Tungsten (electrode).
All the others are opposite. 70% heat into the electrode. 30% into the work piece.
On a 3/8’’ thick plate on a MIG with .035 wire. You should be at about 24-ish volts and about 220-230ish amps… so on a 1/4’’ thick it would be less. Around 180-200a.
