cylender head help

im looking into a new set of cylender heads for the R/T. ive got the cylender heads picked out and they are:
Edelbrock Perfromer RPM

they have a 2.020" intake valve and a 1.600" exhaust valve. the heads come with valve springs.

I need some advice as to what i should look for when getting rocker arms, and lifters. I’m not very knowldgeable on this, so any suggestions would be appreciated

Cylinder

2.02 and 1.6 is a little overboard if this is a mild small block, whats your static compression ratio? You lose velocity and not very useful unless you are revving to 7k. If this is a nitrous or FI engine then get them, if they are edelbrock heads they should have the exhaust side deshrouded.

Rocker arms depend on what you are using, stick with the typical 1.5:1 ratio if you dont know your piston to valve clearance as going over that will effectivly increase the lift of your cam but will also affect your valve train geometry. Rollers are nice and worth the money if you can afford them, Im a little fuzzy on my old school as to what brand to get but ask the edelbrock tech he may have a suggestion for what works best with them.

Usually lifters come with the cam kit if you bought it that way, otherwise it depends if you have a roller or flat tappet camshaft.

dont bother … if ya wanna make your truck a little more peppy … just add a bottle … or else ya gonna go broke …

cause nobody around can tune those heaps

2.02" / 1.60" valves are far from overkill on a 5.2 or 5.9 liter engine, even with a 5500-6000 RPM redline. Air flow and velocity has more to do with the volume (cc) of the intake runner and on its shape

Rocker arms have very little effect on PV clearance in a stock engine with a stock camshaft. Clearances on 98% of the big 3 small blocks are measured in 100’s of thousandths. PV is more about duration of the camshaft than the max lift, because the valves are open at max when the piston is far down in the bores.

dont take this the wrong way… but have you ever agreed with ANYBODY?

i will prob be stopping down to hybrid sometime in the next coupple weeks to get some ordering info and prices…or mayb i’ll just wait untill i get the truck out for the eayr, it would be a nice first cruise. thanks for all the info guys.

right now i am looking at a set of rockers made by Crane Cams:
rocker arm ratio 1:6
full roller
material: alluminum

will these work? they are like $195 on Summit (jsut using them for refference) and there is also a set on there from Mopar that has a 1:7 ratio, but they are almost $800…im just curious as to what mkaes them better than the Crane ones?

Just the facts leg hump
Can’t help you can’t deal with it

did u just call me leg hump WTF

Yep, that’s the problem with modding recent Mopars.

there’s a hot rod article on those that they had in the past couple of years… if i can find it i’ll link it. but the cliffs notes on it are that the motor’s not really strong enough to handle much more power…

Im just going on alot of work and talk with Ken Staschak back in my domestic days. They run the fastest Super Pro drag car at Lancaster and have for years. Must be doing something right.:gotme:

I dont think he said he had a stock cam. Simple physics show that increasing the ratio will change the amount of travel. Im not going to tell someone to just blindly run something without checking things first. I understand the relationship between lift and duration. The exhaust valve is open most when the piston is on its way up :slight_smile: New cam and new rockers could be problem if not checked, could it not. That is why i suggested checking with the manufacturer as they designed the cam and know what will and will not work for sure. If this is not sound advice what would you suggest to do, seeing as how he asked advice and all? If someone tells you to blindly throw parts at your engine without doing research first turn around and RUN. :slight_smile:

This is not a cock joust, merely my professional opinion. And opinions are like assholes, everyone has one :slight_smile: