i tryed talking my father into an exhaust for his cl600…he was all for it until we discovered a second mortgage was needed to purchase it…
good luck with the build
I wish I had 10-30k to spend on a car for my dad. I probably would have had to sell my body just pay for a new engine.
I need a new job.
^^well that is 3 years of hard work/setting aside money. i just didnt know what i was setting it aside for until i heard mr. exhaust valve meet mr. piston=(
i could have but what good would that have done him?
I’d love to see his Van doing 12s LOL
X…
congrats.
haha, big dumb van has been gone for a while now… he has this dumb 93 jeep wrangler that he loves for no reason… :picard:
removed:
all stock intake/exhaust parts,head, front bumper, bumper supports and oil/other components i wont need including 2ndry air pump and other coolant lines for the TB that i wont need any longer.
installed:
modified bumper supports(required minimal modification to fit IC charge-pipes)
installed new head gasket cleaned head and re-adjusted valves…
going to be installing intake mani.+ exh mani. w/Exh. housing attached
installing oil filter reloc. kit, etc. and modified front bumper…
pics are going to be up when i can. no internet at home suxorz
…edit coming im on the phone ugh
update:
kit is/has been fully installed for about 3 weeks now. starts up, runs for 30-40 seconds, and the injectors flood it out. there is no irregular noises and it is in time, so that is a good thing.
the oil filter relocation kit, as mr. smith did say, is a little wet with oil(no runs/drips, just wet) so im going to get a real 36mm wrench(not an adjustable) and just turn it on a little more.
and there is a very small coolant leak coming from the water/bracket cover above the exhaust manifold that i have to tighten down as well.
Aem Tru boost gauge-type controller is ready to be wired into the ignition system and then that is everything in terms of the install.
tuning will be done next friday by Jeff Evans(http://www.evans-tuning.com/) once the catalytic converter and flex joint are welded in by J&M fabrication(http://www.jmfabrications.com/site/) next monday.
so im trailering it to my apt. monday night(hopefully) wiring in the boost gauge into the ignition system, installing my homemade heatshield and sitting on it until thursday night when i tow it to evans tuning=)
some pics:
also, somethings to note:
switched to Hondata K-pro(w/k-series pickups/sensors/valve cover) so i could run a Cat. and pass emissions in GA and NOT have a ton of gauges in the car(only gauge is the boost gauge).
Doesn’t look bad, only thing I would do is try to find someplace else to mount the bcs
nice!! you should get tunerview for it if you want to monitor anything else
Has your father approved of this idea?
Ouch on the K-pro. Where did you get the ECU? Right from Hondata? That’s an easy way to drop nearly $2k…but at least it will pass ODBII.
ILC–"Has your father approved of this idea? "
which hte k-pro or the turbo kit in general?
b/c both have his approval.
trading in my AEM EMS to inlinepro it only cost me $400=)
and yes the emissions ability makes it totally worth it
Are you sure all the sensors are correct? That might have something to do with your fuel issues. I know at least the crank sensor and o2 sensor need to be different, along with needing an AP2 valvecover and a couple other things to run the K-Pro.
yea, the solenoid is only zip-tied there until i make my heatshield/bracket for it.
i also need to fab. a bracket for the coolant overflow bottle and the 3BAR MAP sensor. but that will be done after the tune when i can sit down wit hthe car for a few hours.
—these pics were also taken before i actually tidy’d all the wires and lines up.
it is much cleaner in the engine bay right now, but i have gotten any updated pics.
ypu it came with everything i need from hardtopguy.com:
Crank sensor 37500-PZX-003
Crank wheel 13622-PCX-013
TDC sensor 37510-PZX-003
TDC wheel 14112-PCX-003
Valve cover 12310-PCX-020
Drain plug washer (for PCV valve) 94109-14000
PCV valve 17130-PCX-003
IAT sensor 37880-P05-A00 (not required, but stock IAT will read about 30 degrees hotter)
I was also questioning the install. Probably worth checking that the crank sensor and wheel are installed and indexed correctly along with the TDC setup.
It’d be great to be able to get a scan tool hooked up and watch the live data to make sure it makes sense. Or data log and see what happens when the car quits.
the crank wheel is proably keyed so it only goes in one way…
at least it has been on ever car ive ever built…
crank/cam sensors and pickups are indexed to go one way(and furthermore the car is timed per inlinepros instructions of indexing the cam sprocket for the 3mm HG){taking cam sprocket apart and turning it as far clockwise as it will go and torqueing down—cam sprocket dowel pin is removed for this reason}
car runs for 30 seconds at idle and then cuts out and the exhaust stinks like fuel. so thats what i think it is. but im going to take it to jeff where
im actually upgrading to the better flowing, easier to tune/use injectordynamics.com 1000CC bosch injectors.
hopefully if that is the issue, these injectors and jeff will be able to work through it:)