i was asking the question so i can clean the potential shit out of the threads in the block…thats all i wanted a tap for, i mean if i can actually do more damage than good i wont do it…
we got a set of arp head studs to go in, but that block sat a while with no head, i eman for a good 6-10 mos… before it went in to the shop, and my friend never got it hot tanked or re-surfaced or any of that cleaning goodness, only a light hone job… and it looks like theres alot of oil and other shit from the block sitting. i mean i just wanted to do this properly instead of building a bunk motor.
denton, will oiling the new head studs with wd40 or something and running them in and out a couple times really clean it out that good???
also, instead of starting a new thread…on the head where the cams ride, it looks to be some type of scoring, like some scratches…same thing on the cams, are these ok to use or no…ill post pics tomarrow, to show you guys exactly what im talking about…but i was just wondering, cause id rather not swap the head from my frends current motor to the 2.4
To properly install head studs you must tap all the threads to remove debris and shit. Then apply a thin layer of ARP moly lube to completely coat the threads of the stud. Install stud and remove stud about 5 times. This will ensure that the lube is distributed among the threads properly and that the friction of the threads is minimised. Tighten them hand tight. I like to add a tiny snug with the appropriate allen key. Then do the same with the threads that are going to be securing the head down. Use the nut to run up and down and spread the lube. This way again you zero out the friction.
so is it 11x 1.5 or 11x1.25
and do I order it right from ARP or do I go through a dealer like summit?
then should I get just the assembly lube or should I get both that and the thread sealer? or will using 30wt. oil work?
edit: skrappar said he can get the tap through his work…
so should i still order the assembly lube or is there someplace local that carries it?