Energy Efficiency in older homes

[Jim1234664]

@Mankthetank19

The only way I was going to do the furnaces is if there will be some type of tax credit in 2015. I am trying to make this place self sufficient as much as possible so when I leave, I could sleep better and not worry about tenants calling me. Also, I am always under the impression that if I call in the winter time for a furnance because it can’t be repaired will probably cost more to replace than buying a new one in spring/summer.

Furnaces are pretty stout. I have 8 old ones and none of them have ever let me down in the last 4 years. One had a sensor issue that cost $90 to fix, other than that no issues. Do what you will but you go through this hassle to make money right? I cringe thinking about the payback on unneeded new furnaces.

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I do have original trim but I hoped that when Clever did my windows and if they saw those weight boxes, they would have asked me and gave me an estimate in getting rid/insulating them. I guess I would assume I don’t have them anymore

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Unfortunately when old sash windows are replaced they never open up the boxes, just remove the sashes and install a vinyl unit in the void. you most certainly still have them unless someone filled them before you bought the house (which would be impossible if your old windows had functional weights)

@somedude

people always seem to ignore the obvious stuff. Many houses here have basements. Basements are almost always uninsulated. What steps have you taken to take care of that? Step one would be to stuff insulation around the perimeter where the woof meets your foundation. This is often a major air leak and it is really easy for you to do yourself. If insulating the foundation walls is not needed in your application then you may think about insulating the 1st floor floor joist. Again it is very easy and cheap to do and can make a world of difference by keeping your floor warmer on the first level of your home.

I insulated a portion of the flooring in my house last summer and the change in how the rooms retain heat is significant in my application. Also note that I do not have a basement, I have a crawl space which tends to be very cold.

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Good call however if you do have an air leak at the rim joist fiberglass wont help much if at all. need to air seal first. fiberglass is only really effective in a sealed cavity. any airflow will go right through it more or less.

[Mankthetank19]

@somedude

people always seem to ignore the obvious stuff. Many houses here have basements. Basements are almost always uninsulated. What steps have you taken to take care of that? Step one would be to stuff insulation around the perimeter where the woof meets your foundation. This is often a major air leak and it is really easy for you to do yourself. If insulating the foundation walls is not needed in your application then you may think about insulating the 1st floor floor joist. Again it is very easy and cheap to do and can make a world of difference by keeping your floor warmer on the first level of your home.

I insulated a portion of the flooring in my house last summer and the change in how the rooms retain heat is significant in my application. Also note that I do not have a basement, I have a crawl space which tends to be very cold.

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easy maintenance.

Basement walls above the cinder blocks have old foam live the walls in my house. However, before the winter started I had energsmart come and spray Closed Cell foam around the whole perimeter of my basement and the rim joist areas along with installing a vapor barrier in crawlspace and closed cell along the whole perimeter of the crawl space.

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@Carbonfiberhooded

Seems others have beaten me to it, but putting ANYTHING in an electrical box other than approved electrical components is a big no no. That’s a fire waiting to happen.

They make foam cutouts that go between the receptacle/switch and the cover. Those are allowed because they do not contact exposed energized parts.

I bought and installed those things in every switch and outlet. I still feel a good breeze coming from the socket holes. Is it okay if I remove the boxes and spray within in areas behind them and then reinstall the boxes?

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@Jim1234664

Unfortunately when old sash windows are replaced they never open up the boxes, just remove the sashes and install a vinyl unit in the void. you most certainly still have them unless someone filled them before you bought the house (which would be impossible if your old windows had functional weights)

The windows I removed were vinyl windows from 1984. The only windows I had that was using those weights ws one attic window but that has been replaced with a vinyl one when Clever construction did the window job.

[95dime]

@Mankthetank19

When I drive by your house 4 days a week, I am always like, I wish I had your garage/buildings

lol, Those garage/buildings are cold! Actually only the garage is mine, the airplane hangar and barn directly behind the house are my grandparents. The pole barn hangar to the right is owned by a guy in Tonawanda. Having 4000ft deep of flat land and 2 runways behind the house is pretty fun though

My house has the original wood frame single pane windows(with storms added) and the furnace is over 30 years old but still runs like a champ. Half the walls probably have no more than newspapers in them for insulation. Insulation and venting in the attic was recently updated though, and the water heater is fairly new.

I find that those thick “insulated” curtains work pretty well at the windows.

[BOBBYGRV]

This was at my last apartment before I bought a house. I was working 12-14 hour days, so I didn’t want to spend much for something I wouldn’t be using. This was taken around 9 pm when I got home work one night. Didn’t get much sleep that night…