just well kept secrets.
if you dont know anything about mixing and matching parts, buy a top end kit, heads/manifold/cam/springs/lifters/carb all matched to work together.
yeah i did a little searching, i deffinatly know i dont have the money for a stroker kit, so im problably going to just go with a stock rebuild on the block because rebuild kits can be had for real cheap.
thats a good idea though to buy a whole top end kit that is suppose to be together
does anyone know if it would be worth it to bore the block over a little bit with a stock bottom end rebuild…i know the rebuild kits come with different size pistons depending on what bore the block is
no. if you can get away with just a hone/ ridge ream do that. you want to leave as much meat on the cyl walls as possible.
this way you can punch the block 3 - 5 more times in the motors future.
I know someone whos had the same block in thier oval car for 10 years. started out stock, punched it 10 30 40 then 60.
inbetween rebuilds to clean it up.
most people automatically punch 030, its not always needed, and its expensive to get a block punched, because they have to tank and check it before they will even touch it, and thats over 100$ alone.
I’ve built a ton of these. depending on your application, you can get away realllll cheap with a decent motor.
If it was just a cruiser motor and i didnt have alot of money
good old school 305 heads to up the compression, port the exhaust side yourself, headers, performer intake, 650, cam kit. youll walk away with a decent motor for like 650$
the 05 heads raise compression about 1, but dont breath well enough for a drag car motor, makes a nasty truck motor tho haha.
its pretty much just going to be a cruiser but i would like it to have a little bit more power than stock
my dad dosent even know if he wants to rebuild this motor, his friend has a 383 that hes not using and we might pick that up off of him