Has anybody here converted their stock SR manifold to take an external wastegate?
Anybody even seen it done?
ive seen it done, sorry i have no other info on it though
You can’t weld on Cast Iron can you?
Don’t do it just get an aftermarket manifold. It will flow better and look better.
Yeah – I hear ya.
The crappy thing is there doesn’t seem to be a good quality mani that can be had for a decent price.
You go from like a $250 SSAutochrome Ebay special that is likely to crack to a full-race manifold that is less likely tocrack but that cost $1200usd.
I’ve hear full-race is going to create a “stock location” tubular manifol but it too will still come in at about $900usd.
Anybody have any other alternatives?
There are big hp gains that can be gotten from just switching to a good flowing equal length manifold like full race.
Yeah – but I beleive the value only comes to those building 500whp monsters.
For a guy that just want a fun-to-drive 300whp street car… the full-race mani is a bit of a waste of cash (when compared to other mods )
Yeah – but I beleive the value only comes to those building 500whp monsters.
For a guy that just want a fun-to-drive 300whp street car… the full-race mani is a bit of a waste of cash (when compared to other mods )[/quote]
Agreed!! you dont need it to make 300 - 380 hp and thats plenty
You don’t need a full race manifold just like you don’t NEED an SR to make that kind of power either, but it all depends on how you want to spend your money to get to that 300 whp goal.
The manifold speeds your spool up and does provide you with a solid improvement in performance. You will notice it on a 220whp car
SS autochrome is know to have some manifolds crack and others not to.
I have been in heavy discussion on another board regarding external wastegates. SS autochrome sells decent ones for 120-150US or your can buy a tial one for 250US. Many tial wastegates have failed, and so have SS autochrome ones.
What I’m trying to say is, a full race manifold may be less likely to crack, but with anything it can crack too.
I’d say, go with SS autochrome or get another midrange manifold and live with it. If it cracks get it welded up.
Andrew.
A good welder will have no problem, benefits to doing it that way too.
If the pic is too big, delete it.
Downside is no bling, upsides and more info/pics can be found here: http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB9&Number=67872878&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1
There you go Nave!! Thanks buddy – that rocks.
And as for bling – I think that is plenty bing!!! The benefits of a strong cast manifold and the benefits of an external wastegate all in one… that to me is bling.
No problem.
It should be noted that the external WG costs more (compared to a cheap SSAC manifold, I have one, ended up putting a lot of time into welding it properly though). Another thing is the extra work involved in routing the WG piping, which is going to be louder than an internal. Depends on your goals really.
In short: Bling and ease = internal, power and a bit of work = external on stock manifold
Hey Nave,
Are you saying you are using a converted stock mani or are you using a cheaper tubular that you have rewelded…sorry, just no following what you are saying.
If you are using a converted cast mani who did the welding for you and have you had any problems. I just talked to a good buddy of mine at Leitner who suggested it was not possible to weld on the cast mani…he said you could braze it but it would just crack.
More info would be cool.
you can weld cast
it’s not as easy as just using a MIG to weld steel, but it’s not impossible. You just need a specific type of wire. It is easier to weld cast iron to cast iron, rather than welding steel to cast.
Great ghetto way to make a turbo manifold … grind off the studs, weld the turbo directly to the manifold.
try typing “welding cast iron” in Google … wonderful thing this interweeb
I have a SSAC manifold that was cracked when I got it. I personally welded it up and fixed all the spots that were not welded to begin with (had to cut it apart to get the torch into some of the areas). It’s a bitch, hopefully it doesn’t crack, so far so good. If it does crack I am going to have to see where before I decide whether I will reweld it or go another route.
To weld the stock manifold you are going to need a TIG to do a good job, not sure which rod though, but I’m sure I could find out quickly if I had to. I think that link explains what they use, no issues with cracking that I remember.