FAST motorsports in Albany, NY (Attn: All LS vehicles)

[1evilzr1]

^ whatever, Maybe for all the “know it all tuner wanna b’s” all of us at RLMS could host a novice tuning course that may educate some of you.

[88slowmarro]

that i would go to ,

[MikeyB]

That would be awsome.

[psi2high]

Nah Im good with the knowledge I have

[kdubs]

Can we please try to keep this thread back on topic… thanks!

[88slowmarro]

can we please see your jugs ?

[1evilzr1]

@psi2high

Nah Im good with the knowledge I have

you should open a shop. knowledge is $$

[usmc2801]

@kdubs

Can we please try to keep this thread back on topic… thanks!

You obviously don’t realize what forum you are on.

[kdubs]

@88slowmarro

can we please see your jugs ?

rofl:rofl:rofl

@usmc2801

You obviously don’t realize what forum you are on.

ehh it was worth a shot lol…

[262]

@JoeyC6"

So…your dialing the car on the street with bursts to 100 mph and then your going to drive your customers cars to 150 mph? Sounds like an incident waiting to happen.

99% of the time I am not the one driving the customer car. Plus its not like I am letting people drive like animals out of the roads its very control situations and I am instructing them in exactly what I need an want. Very smoooooth and draw out sweep of different ranges to get things dialed in.

Once I am out of the car though go have fun!

@SSmokinn SS

Once Im “done” tuning then “hey go hit 150+ by all means but I dont need to see it”.

he said once hes done tuning the car, go to 150 on your own time…

Exactly, I know how fast these cars and trucks can and will go but please do it on your own time

[262]

@1evilzr1

i’ll still take a DYNO tune over a “country road” tune! Seen plenty of tuning getting done and doing it right involves the right equipment and quite a bit of time. Its literally impossible to keep an engine at steady state on the street to properly dial in the MAF curve and the VE tables. By the time you do it right you are looking at min. of 3-4 hours per car. Most reputable shops will dial in most of the tune in this manner and then fine tune transition stuff on the street and check for drivability things. As I have been told if you get the MAF/VE stuff nailed you will be in good shape with all the other adjustments.

The right tools including a proper datalogger, a good knowledge base, a quality wideband that is calibrated and a couple spare plugs. Done on the street or done on a dyno can yield the same results. Yes its nice and all to do steady state tuning but if you are road tuning and dont use quick abrupt throttle changes you will build a model by making sweeps across a range of cells to increase counts to the point to use it as data to tweak from. Same on a dyno or the road if its really far off you quickly make changes then build form thre.

Correct VE/MAF tuning is the ONLY way to get the rest of the tune correct. You hack these the rest of the tune is hacked and carries more and more flaws that begin to stack.

@1evilzr1

aahhhhh, im well aware of “street tuning” obviously! All cars that come in the shop start off on the dyno then Howard takes the car on the street and dials in everything. There is a hell of a difference in starting on a dyno and finishing on the street as opposed to starting/finishing on a “country road”

If the proper time and techniques are used there should be no difference between any tune no matter where it starts and ends.

My personal favorite is street tune to nail it 99% then take it to the track to make it ET the best then go back and throw it on the dyno. Just so you can have a piece of paper to know your numbers. Also is nice to see where it does end up making peak HP and peak torque for later changes in the torque converter or gearing to use your power more wisely. Getting stuck on dyno numbers and peak power does NOT win races. Its justa tool and not something that you should live by. Also, with the load based dyno’s you still rely on the operator loading the car correctly. Out of the street the load is the load.

@SSmokinn SS

a dyno is good for AFR tweaking…not daily driving.

A dyno is just another tool and resource for tuning in general. Something to be used along with other tools and knowledge for a tuner to be able to do his/her job

[262]

@1evilzr1"

who the fuck said anything about JUST a dyno tune??? street tuning is 50% of the job, you start on a dyno, clean up on the street, very simple. 50/50 dyno/ street. Make me a list of all the big name tuners in the country that dont have dynos. Hennessey? Lingenfelter? Underground racing? Vette Drs? Synapse??? Next level??

I guess none of you understand the concept of tuning which involves “re-mapping” of the engines new airflow characteristics. WOT is the easiest thing to tune. Its the cruise and part throttle stuff that takes the most time. You really need a dyno that has a load control to stablize the engine so each cell can be adjusted. If this is done correctly the car should run like a dream and there is a lot of shit that doesn’t need to be touched. I’ve seen some of Howards friends that flew in from GM to gang up on some weird projects and saw the kind of stuff they where doing. Trust me…the guys who calibrate for GM… I’m sure they now what they are doing.

Hung out with one of them at PRI…these guys are into it heavy!

Out of those shops you listed and even GM, explain this concept to me. If remapping the entire tune is the proper way to tune and is the only way it should be done then

WHY do some still PE rape their tunes?

especially GM if they tuned correctly then we would have no business with bone stock cars for the most part. Dont get me wrong that they need to take into account neglict but still I point out PE raping tuning technique.

I have seen wayyyy to many tunes come from big name shops that have BONE STOCK ve and maf tables, inccorect injector data and PE tables that look like the rocky mountains. Just like ssmokinnss’s car. It was 85% stock programming.

Running the car on a load dyno to hit every cell in order will be nice but smooth transistions from cell to cell by driving on the street will acomplish the same thing and in this case faster since you will be working on a range of the map all at once.

Im not saying a dyno should never be used but I am saying it should never be said it will make or break your tune. I have more cars tuned that have never seen a dyno that based on their combo’s well out perform the “normal” that similar cars see at the track. So all this focus on a dyno is nice and all but i will ask this

What is more important to a drag racer? RWHP or ET?

[TurboTravis]

262, at the track tuning should be done for MPH, not ET. MPH=horsepower. In extreme cases, you’d actually be tuning the car to make LESS power if you went off of ET alone.

[262]

Travis you are correct. MPH means horsepower for sure and I agree should be tuning for MPH. However MPH is also skewed just like ET by traction.

I should have technically said “track results” to include both et and mph.

[SSmokinn_SS]

@262

Out of those shops you listed and even GM, explain this concept to me. If remapping the entire tune is the proper way to tune and is the only way it should be done then

WHY do some still PE rape their tunes?

especially GM if they tuned correctly then we would have no business with bone stock cars for the most part. Dont get me wrong that they need to take into account neglict but still I point out PE raping tuning technique.

I have seen wayyyy to many tunes come from big name shops that have BONE STOCK ve and maf tables, inccorect injector data and PE tables that look like the rocky mountains. Just like ssmokinnss’s car. It was 85% stock programming.

Running the car on a load dyno to hit every cell in order will be nice but smooth transistions from cell to cell by driving on the street will acomplish the same thing and in this case faster since you will be working on a range of the map all at once.

Im not saying a dyno should never be used but I am saying it should never be said it will make or break your tune. I have more cars tuned that have never seen a dyno that based on their combo’s well out perform the “normal” that similar cars see at the track. So all this focus on a dyno is nice and all but i will ask this

What is more important to a drag racer? RWHP or ET?

this is exactly what I was getting at…