I just replaced the front brakes with R32 GTR calipers and rotors, and S/S lines all around. I then filled up the MC, keeping a close eye on it to make sure it never got low and let air in, and bled the brales untill clean fluid without bubbles ran out at all 4 corners. when doing the rears, there was some pressure and when I opened the bleeder valve the pressure would fade at the peddal, but the fronts never did this and I bled them ALOT!! And when I hop in the car, whether it’s on or off, the peddal is DEAD. It just goes right to the floor, no resistance, and if you pump it it doesn’t firm up. I took it around the block and had to stop with the E-brake as there was no pressure to the brakes.
I really need help! I can’t drive it now untill it’s fixed! I figured it would be an easy upgrade and it’s taken me all day today!
Also, I couldn’t put the master cylinder from the GTR on as I can’t find an adapter to hook both my front brakes up to the single front output on it. It doesn’t have another hole to hook up to so I need a ‘T’ or ‘Y’ adapter to screw both front lines into the same hole of the master cyliner. so untill I find that adapter, I am just using the stock 240sx MC.
I just got back inside where I was bleeding all 4 corners AGAIN!! and I did it in the order sugested of furthest corner first working around towards the MS. However it didn’t make a difference. If I slam on the brakes hard all the way to the floor I can stop the car but only the rears kick in, the fronts don’t seem to be effected by the peddal, even though fluid does come out of them when they are bled. Does it make a difference what way the calipers are installed? can they be upside down? And how would I know of they are seized? not that that would really account for the dead peddal.
HELP ME!! I am going to try to get it into a shop tommorow, but saturdays aren’t the best for last minute stuff like that.
I don’t know much about brakes, I won’t lie to you, but I’m pretty sure your problem is the master cylinder. GTR brakes are HUGE compared to the piddly little things that come on the 240, so I don’t thihnk the stock master cylinder can handle it.
I think you might have better luck with a Z32 master cylinder, but like I said, I’m not an expert in brakes.
K, sounds like RPS13 could be right, ure MC might not be able to handle the added volume needed for the GTR calipers. Maybe something to try to help figure the problem out, go get some hose and clamps, and a tee and try to make that gtr one work to see if that is ure problem. There also could still be air in the system too. ive heard horror stories about fluid changes, and it taking a long time to get the brakes bled(couple days) ask around at some shop or places the rent or loan tools about a power bleeder. Im not sure how much they are to buy, but id bet greggs distibutor’s would have em.
Sorry i cant be more help Ben, keep us posted though(want to know what not to do wen i buy ure old ones).
I got the brake line flare kit at crappy tire, and flared the line I needed. Worked good I think.
And I swapped the front calipers, so now the nipples are on the top of the calipers, seemed like that would be the right way of doing it. And I swapped the master cylinder for the skyline one. And bled the brakes again. I have good pressure at the rear, but very little at the front. and no matter how many times we do it, I can’t get good pressure at the fronts. The pistons do move now, but not far enough to clamp the rotor. I even tried sucking the fluid out the nipples with a pump, but that didn’t work either. And I diconected the lines at the master cylinder and I have fluid squirting out there no-problem. I just can’t figure it out. I am ready to take it to a shop, but need it done ASAP and most shops around here are booked up for as long as weeks!
I think My master cylinder might have been air locked. In the end I attached a transfer pump(like what you use to squirt oil into your diff or tranny) to the nipple on the caliper, and put a hose clamp on it to make a good seal. Then I had someone step on the pedal and hold it down, I cracked the nipple, pulled the pump lever to create a bunch of suction, closed the bleeder valve and releaved the pressure in my pump. Then I repeated 3-4 times per caliper. Once I pulled on my pump, the brake pedal finnaly fell to the floor (after swapping calipers and re-bleeding the rears, i finnaly had some pressure, but only a little) so the pedal went to the floor, meaning I was taking out some air within the lines. So I repeated untill i had some fluid coming out, and then bled normally. And it worked after that! So I figure either I had a big bubble in the calipers, or the master cylinder was airlocked and I forced fluid into the “pump” part of the MS.
Hope all these questions and answers will help out someone else in the future!
Thanks guys for all the advice, in the end some of it helped me come up with a solution!
on another note:
After getting it all to work, I took it out on the highway to do a bunch of high speed stops to bed the pads. Then I drove along for a little bit to let them cool and jammed on them HARD at about 140km’s. I was ready and bracing my self, but HOLY CRAP!! I got a headache, and popped both ears!!! I am not kidding…my head still hurt this morning and my ears really hurt last night. I am guessing from the decelerating G’s ???
It was crazzy!! And I think There is still a little air in there, I will have to bleed again soon. The pedal is very firm and high, but has a soft’er spot as you apply enough force to lock up the tires.
And then after driving around a pulling some very quick stops, I held my hand up to the rotors, and then even touched them, and they didn’t burn me! My old ones were still good, but they would get really hot, even under normal driving conditions, they just didn’t cool down as quickly. However these must cool very quickly, which makes sense as they are designed better and have a lot more mettal to them to absorb the heat. I thought that was pretty cool!(pun intended)
Now I have to try autocrossing with these bad boys!!