Bled my brakes, they are all fine, but the brakes are still kinda shitty…what could be the problem? Bad slave cylinder or master cylinder or something?
Did the brakes ever work well? I.E. are you sure there’s a “problem.”
Not “well” but they were better than they are now. I replaced the rear calipers a few days ago and the front passenger side caliper las year…so it should be good…but eh…damn F-bods lol.
are you sure you did an adequate bleed job?
it doesn’t take much air to make brakes feel like ass.
the brakes on that car are shot. I told you that once we pulled the wheels off. We bled them so that you knew when you bought new brakes it would be perfect.
Dumbass.
So, does it have new pads on it or not? If not then I guess thats not gonna help much…lol
Also, what car is this? what is the problem? (soft pedal, lots 'o pedal travel hard pedal-no stoppy, all the above…none the above) I do alot of brakes so, I could probably lend some advice or a hand…I wouldnt trust that Jak guy…kidding…sup jack?
causes of a spongy pedal…
- air in system
- low brake pads causing the pistons to come out farther and take more fluid
- bad brake fluid, it absorbs water and sucks
when u bled the system did you do a complete flush? if so did you activate the abs(if installed) to purge that fluid as well?
Yeah, ABS makes for fun experiences with bleeding air out of the system. muther fugger
its an 84 TA. We bled the brakes the day before and I told him the brakes were shot and bleeding them will only make them marginally better.
And Hay Back… you don’t call you don’t write?
yeah I know the rotors are shit. It stops, but the brake has to be like to the floor before it really grabs.
adjust the rear drum brakes and replace if necessary
[quote=“JEG,post:10,topic:29064"”]
yeah I know the rotors are shit. It stops, but the brake has to be like to the floor before it really grabs.
[/quote]
when I did my brakes I was mad broke so I just threw on some pads. After that my car shook like no other. So you gotta replace the rotors AND pads or when the time comes you’ll have to replace the pads again even though they’re not even worn that much. Also, when you bleed the brakes a lot of people think you can just pump the brake pedal and that’s it but when you push the pedal down, you have to keep it down and then put the stopper back on the line THEN depress the pedal. If you depress the pedal without the stopper, it just lets air back in the line! Sometimes just replacing everything bc the brakes are old or not taken care of is the best idea…
[quote=“Poprocks704,post:12,topic:29064"”]
when I did my brakes I was mad broke so I just threw on some pads. After that my car shook like no other. So you gotta replace the rotors AND pads or when the time comes you’ll have to replace the pads again even though they’re not even worn that much. Also, when you bleed the brakes a lot of people think you can just pump the brake pedal and that’s it but when you push the pedal down, you have to keep it down and then put the stopper back on the line THEN depress the pedal. If you depress the pedal without the stopper, it just lets air back in the line! Sometimes just replacing everything bc the brakes are old or not taken care of is the best idea…
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LOL. Some prolific advice right here. :roll2:
lol…what stopper? You read about doing brakes or have you done them before? I cant think of what the stopper is, maybe tightening the bleeder?
Most of that post didnt make much sense.:smash2: :bloated:
[quote=“13005TEDGP,post:14,topic:29064"”]
lol…what stopper? You read about doing brakes or have you done them before? I cant think of what the stopper is, maybe tightening the bleeder?
Most of that post didnt make much sense.:smash2: :bloated:
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sorry i don’t know the technical terms…I don’t go to school for that shit and yes I have done my brakes and other peoples many times…god why do you guys need to jump on every person that you don’t think is as good as you?
Jeg, if you are 100% sure you’re not leaking anywhere, i’ve got money on a bad bleed job.
Also, if the seal in the master goes, the brakes will never feel right, and you won’t always see the fluid leaking either.
Try flushing the fluid if a simple bleed doesn’t cut it.
Stupid question - but how are the lines looking?
Parts of a Hydraulic Braking System:
Brake Lines
Brake Hoses
Brake Calipers
Brake Caliper Slider Bolts
Brake Caliper Seals/Boots
Brake Cylinders(Drum)
Brake Springs(Drum)
Brake Pads
Brake Rotors
Brake Master Cylinder
Brake Vacuum Booster
Brake Fluid
Ensure all of the above ARE IN GOOD WORKING ORDER.
“It looks ok” or “It’ll do for now” IS NOT THE RIGHT Answer.
Brakes determine you rearend the guy who pulled out in front of you, which then would be your fault, or missing him, and not totalling a nice car
Brake Fluid is probably the most overlooked part of the braking system. Pull your cap off your resouviour. Does it look Black? Brown? FLUSH the system. Your fluid has absorbed air/moisture, and is not performing at its best. If you have air in your system, your car won’t stop worth a damn, and your pedal will have alot of travel.
Brake Master Cylinder is what gets pushed when your press the brake pedal inside the car. If your master cylinder fails, fluid will leak by the seal inside the cylinder, and causes a fluid leak. It will also encourage air to enter the brake system. Your pedal will feel like crap, because the proper fluid pressure is not reaching the brake lines, which goto your calipers. If you have a wet spot dripping under your master cylinder, generally running down your Brake booster, your master cylinder is shot. You need to replace this asap, before you have no brakes at all.
Brake Booster is a critical component to being able to stop fast. Ever turn your car off while going down the road, then attempt to stop? After a couple pumps, your brake booster has lost all of its vacuum, and your are essentially driving your car with old fashioned “Manual Brakes.” Pedal becomes stiff, and you don’t stop very well.
Brake rotors should be smooth, on both sides. Ridges or grooves hinder stopping surface to the brake pads, and can cause shaking, fade, and other things.
Brake Calipers are prone to “seizing.” There are many moving parts on a caliper, and proper maintenance should be followed. Slider bolts, which allows the caliper to slide on and off the rotor, from the mounting bracket are probably the biggest problem to caliper failure. If those slider bolts get moisture and begin to rust inside, the caliper will not move, causing it to basically not be able to push the pad to the rotor. Brake Slider bolt lube is sold at AutoZone in lil packets. Always ensure your bolts have lots of lubrication. Rubber boot/seals around the slider bolts should be in PERFECT condition. One lil tiny rip or tear, will allow moisture to enter the slider housing, and rust will begin to form. Same goes to the rubber boot that fits around the Caliper Piston. A tear in that, can allow rust to form inside the piston wall, causing premature piston seal failure, and possible for moisture to enter the brake fluid system.
Brake pads should have decent amount of material on them. A small bit of lining left means you should goto the store and buy a new set of pads. Metal on metal is Worse! It will stop like shit, and definitely ruin your rotors, in a big hurry. If chunks of brake pad material are missing, then you should defiinitely replace the pads. Also, if your pads have cracks along the material surface, it means your pads have likely been overheated, and they will fall apart…eventually leading to a metal on metal situation.
Cracked and/or Dry-rotted brake hoses can create fade, due to “Ballooning”, and can eventually lead to BUSTING. Which means, your fluid pressure does not reach the caliper, you do not stop, and you have an accident. Always inspect your brake hoses, every other oil change…specially on older vehicles which still have the original hoses still installed. Trust me, you don’t want a hose to fail on you. The outcome is not pretty.
Also, inspect the brake lines, specially when its a “Northern car”. Salt can eat your brake lines in a damn hurry. I’ve seen 2004 model vehicles needing brake lines replaced, because the salt packs up under the vehicle, and stays there. Salt is the biggest enemy to cars in the snowy states.
Did I miss anything? Whew…
[quote=“Jack,post:9,topic:29064"”]
its an 84 TA.
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[quote=“Carnut,post:11,topic:29064"”]
adjust the rear drum brakes and replace if necessary
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disc all around. 
sorry i don’t know the technical terms…I don’t go to school for that shit and yes I have done my brakes and other peoples many times…god why do you guys need to jump on every person that you don’t think is as good as you?
People jump on other people…when the said person gives off the wall, not very helpful tips. If you dont know the correct names for components, you might want to learn before trying to teach other people. Thats all.
Now, if the pedal feels like its going to the floor before it will really grab, its either still air, OR I’d bet that the master cyl. is leaking at the seal on the back.
Remove the two bolts holding the master cyl. to the brake booster, pull it away (careful not not kink/break the lines). If it is bad, it will be leaking.
Sometimes you can see brake fuid on the brake booster directly under the master cyl.
Hope that helps.