That is a pretty dumb argument
Tons of people build/race unibody cars
I think he’s saying don’t drag race your car that is being restored to museum quality. That’s what I took from it anyways. I kind of agree, the build Misteroman wants to do sounds more like a fun street car that he takes to shows and gets tons of attention. Not something I’d be ripping down a track at 130mph with a concrete wall 4 feet away from me.
Just go find a mint one with 10k miles and buy it for 8 grand
Why mod any car?
If you wanted to click off high 9s you could build a relatively tame 408/blower setup and still retain AC and other bs if you didn’t do something stupid like 6spd it should be relativity smooth power and be fine with drag radials.
It’s not like he couldn’t be driving this thing around restored and some jackass hits him far more likely the completely destroying it off a wall at the track.
I can only think of a handful of people locally that have messed up a street car that bad at the track in the years I have been into racing.
LS2, LS3, LSA, LS9 would be a better foundation for a boosted engine. The LS7 block would need sleeves for big power with boost. Look at spending around $10,000 for a good boosted LS combo without the supercharger. I am doing a twin turbo combo right now for around $30k. Big power & boost adds up quick $$$$
the 10K mark is about right for a strong long-block for boost; I’ve been looking at the LME LSx 427 motor which prices out right about 10k; and that’s just the base motor.
If you’re going to boost it why waste money on huge cubes? Unless you’re trying to make some stupid amount of HP its over kill.
You can easily do 700rwhp on a forged 346 with out some insane amount of boost, expensive heads, or other big $$$$ parts.
Actually most of the time a good boost short block is around $10k with good parts and all the tricks. Then you need to figure in a good set of heads with good valves and you are looking at a minimum of $2800-$3000 for them and you can easily spend $4000 on really trick stuff. Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go. Even a basic iron or aluminum 6.0L with a turbo, procharger, magnuson TVS2300 will make an easy 700 rwhp. Turn up the wick and run race gas for insurance and you have a 1000 rwhp combo
I will take 10 of them of them please and give ya a $1k finders fee for everyone one I buy lol. I still might go this route if I can find a less desirable one( 85 auto 305 carb etc) for cheap to salvage some parts from.
10K mile Irocs are $15K min. Guy on G.I. just sold his 20K+ mile 87 for 17K+ on
ebay a cpl months ago.
As far as the engine goes I just want something that is dead reliable and just wont break. Look at the guys running new zr1’s constantly down the strip in the 10’s. 100’s of times and nothing breaks!
Built LS2 or LS3 with a Magnuson TVS2300 will fit the bill then
When you say right now, does that mean you can throw up a build thread for this project? Or at least some pictures here and there. I’d love to follow a $30k twin turbo build. Unless by right now you meant it has been talked about but not gone further than that. 
Where are you looking for your IROC’s? I stumble across gorgeous ones here and there for under $10k. They need ZERO paint/body work. Add the motor of your choice and have fun.
Nope parts are in the engine room already. Probably post some progress on the F body board when I get a chance. Details are there already
We are talking about 2 different cars. Im looking to build my Iroc not buy an one to drive
I would like to find one that s close to what I want to accomplish and strip it.
I appreciate the pm tho and one of those might work
I was looking at a house on the Island the other day and saw this sitting in your driveway. Am I to assume that it is not going to be out cruising this summer?
U saw it on the river? No I wont drive it until its finished.
This is pretty nice.
d, my dad gs was a full frame off, done by orchard park collision, i believe it came in around 25k or so, with a new frame. this is going back 8 years or so.