Cyl 7 misfire in my 99 Expedition. New coilpack and plug and no difference. Working on this thing sucks so the trial and error method isnt real fun. Any ideas of what to try next?
Edit: If anyone knows Fords, its the 5.4L.
I know you don’t dare ask me to work on it knowing it cuts into your M#'s schedule here :haha
Jesse you good at some mechanical and electrical. Got a DVOM?? Try these.
Pull coilpack out of motor head, leave plug down in cylinder. Put a good clean sparkplug in the coilpack, hook the coilpack to the harness, and ground the plug against something metal on the engine(make sure it goes to ground). Have Jon or somebody crank over the engine and check for spark at that plug(wear a glove and hold onto the coilpack and your won’t get zapped) Spark = yes move onto injector, spark = no time to test the harness.
No spark…take DVOM and check for 12V at one of the harness terminals for that coilpack(Key must be ignition on)…no 12V time to check for broken harness…have 12V possible bad ignitor in ECM.
If you have spark move onto the injector. Pull the harness and do the same thing as you do for the coilpack…check for 12v at one of the pins(on the harness) key ignition on. same symptoms apply.
BTW…I believe I have two good fuel injectors that will fit your motor…they’re sitting pretty in a zippy bag in Eric evo actually ;D
Thanks mang. Brain fart, stupid mistake, problem solved.
I wouldnt bring this thing to you anyway since you hate working on mundane stuff and it doesnt get more boring than a Ford SUV.
But seriously, no one bother Adam until March 30th, he’s booked. :lol
Had alot of ford 4.6 and 5.4s in the AF. Most cases it was the fuel injector but some were the coil
Alot of the times on the 5.4 with the COP’s it is the COP that will cause a misfire. I’ve never had it happen on mine but alot of guys do. I have 165,000+ miles on my Harley F150 and it runs strong as HELL still, and is getting SC’ed soon. If you did that already though it must be an injector. The 5.4L are great motors, there is a guy in the ford truck forums that has over 1,000,000 miles on one in a van.
Fixed it shortly after I posted this. It was the COP after all.
And I have to disagree. This is my only experience owning a domestic truck and the stories are true. Something breaks on this thing every 5k miles. It feels weird to start it up and not see the check engine light on.
Funny mine has 165k and still running strong enough I’m SC’ing it. My friends new Tundra on the other hand…by 5,000 miles it had to have the tranny replaced, towed in on electrical problems, and then they had a recall on the tailgate. Oil changes and thats about it, oh ya brakes and stuff too. I’ve owned Ford, GM, Mazda, Honda…and my father has had multiple Toyota trucks. I have friends with Nissan’s that are junk, Toyota’s that were money pits, it doesn’t matter what it is. If you don’t own it from day one and know it’s history you are rolling the dice. Even then, you could have a lemon. I’ve worked at ALOT of dealers over the years and see all kinds of issues with them all.
got to say,i’m not a ford fan,but i work on the pd’s cars and they beat the balls off them and we use 5/20 wt oil,and have very little motor trouble.
Is that the recommended weight?
Yea, Ford changed to 5w20 from 5w30 in '01 in most vehicles. With the modular motors you can’t run a real which oil since they have prett tight clearances and the timing chain tensioner system is controlled by oil pressure. I have heard part of the reason for the change was for better fuel mileage. I have ran both in my truck, 5w20 and 5w30. I’m going to go back to 5w30 I think this spring once the SC is on though but there are guys running 14+ lbs of boost with over 100k miles and no issues on the 5.4L engines.
Those Crown Vics WILL take a beating… ;D I had a '92 and I was brutal to it. I went through 2 sets of rear tires in less than 10k miles I think. I installed some lower gears (3.55) and a better exhaust and had a high 15 second beater for the winter…hahaha.
Nice to hear some positive things about Ford’s reliability.
yea,the recomended weight is 5/20,and for severe service the milege is 5000 miles. it’s a full roller motor so it doesn’t need the heavy weight. tight clearences also,mileage, the new oils have the zinc phosphate removed,try using that shit on an old school flat tappet and see what happens :lol
Camshaft in the oil pan…
I think one of the only good oils left for a older flat tappet is the Shell Rotella. I know thats what alot of guys run in the older FE Fords. I had a '69 Mach 1 with a 428 SCJ…I will miss her.
there is a group of engineers that did a oil test,the timken test,believe it or not valvoline semi-sythetic and purple power where one of the best.mobil 1 one of the worst
I have used the dino oil Valvoline but never the semi or full synthetic. I know a guy that is an engineer involved with oil testing and he said that Havoline is a good oil. This was awhile ago, and whether things have changed I’m not sure. I’m not sure who makes the Motorcraft oil anymore but I’ve had good luck with it. I “think” Mobil used to but it’s hard telling now.
any of the oils with the ec2 rating really suck for anti-wear,that why you see oils that have that “off road use only” they usually still have the zinc phosphate in them.that zinc ruins the cats.
How do the new diesel’s get around that? It never mattered since they did not require cats. I know thats why the guys used the Shell Rotella in the FE motors due to the zinc phos. in it. My father used to run Oilzum along time ago in his racecars, straight 50w! Do they even make that anymore? He also used Kendall race oil, 20w50 I think or maybe that was straight 50 too.
True that! All ford modular family (4.6,5.4,6.8) area great engines if you can keep the plugs in the head. They do have COP issues sometimes, and are prone to exhuast mani studs breaking. Other than that though, internally solid as hell. Mine’s dry as a bone at 90k.