Frame ( squared and tubed) considerations ?

[quote=“Coldaccord,post:19,topic:27907"”]

if you need/want pre fabbed floor pans and/or frame rails charlie osborne at zedd findings (datsunzparts.com) makes them, and they’re relatively cheap. oem cut.

[/quote]

I may look in to the floor pans. New ones were obviously welded in the Z at some point, but it looks like they caked on undercoating, inside and out. This trapped water and made a few irrelevant rust spots that I can weld in without much hassle. The frame rails zedd has are ment to be welded over the existing rails, which would just cover up the rust, something I’m avoiding all together.

Edit: sorry, that was bullydog I was thinking of. Either way, it wouldnt take much to fabb them up, it’s welding them in to the car so everything comes out straight I’m most concerened about.

[quote=“newman,post:4,topic:27907"”]

Yeah, but i’m telling you right now, it’s a fucking bitch. more work than you realize.

Fair gentleman Z just added 4 bars to his existing cage and i KNOW that was no small task.

[/quote]

It’s not bad, now, I just made mistakes in accounting for the existing bars (I added instead of subtracted). The problem was compounded by the angle of the existing Autopower cage. I shouldn’t have the same issue on the Sentra as the cage members are almost 90* verticle.

  1. Minimum tubing sizes for (all Showroom Stock, Touring and
    Improved Touring Category auto-mobiles registered after June
    1, 1994) for all required roll cage elements (All dimensions in
    inches):

Up to 1500 lbs. 1.375 x .095 DOM / Seamless / Alloy

1501-2200 lbs. 1.500 x .095 DOM / Seamless / Alloy

2201-3000 lbs. 1.500 x .120 DOM / Seamless / Alloy
or… 1.625 x .120 DOM / Seamless / Alloy
or… 1.750 x .095 DOM / Seamless / Alloy

(American Sedans may construct to these specs regardless of weight.)

3001-4000 lbs. 1.750 x .120 DOM / Seamless / Alloy
Over 4000 lbs. 2.000 x .120 DOM / Seamless / Alloy

1.5 X .120~.125 is the standard for a car of that weight. For a Z not following rule set I would do a standard 6 point full cage (not an overglorified roll bar) and then have two more point going through the fire wall to tie in the front suspension. To complement those two points build a removable triangulated strut bar.

The limiting factor for my ruleset and a “presentable” street car is the dash, blower motor. It gets in way of the best firewall points.

The best thing to do is get the main hoop and front bars in and plan from there. Things easily change after you everything into place and are easy to plan around.

The only tubes that HAVE to bent are the main hoop and front supports (halo bar) Everything else can be straight. For a street car a simple X in the door area with a high bias on the B-pillar side and low angle on the door hinge side. This would allow for easy ingress/egress.

The only reason I went with “NASCAR” bars was to legally gut the doors.