4-6 Point Roll Cages

SON240sx Automotive
1

Okay guys… I have been building my own 6 point Roll Cage and am already building two more for two son members as it is.

There has been alot of talk about others being interested in one as well whether it is a full 6 point cage that is fully braced or just a front/rear half 4 point type deal.

These cages are made with a 1.75’’ x .120’’ Main Hoop and 1.50’’ x .120’’ connecting to the Main Hoop from each Pillar and Rear Stays. The Main Hoop as well as the Rear Stays are each Braced. Also has side door bars.

All cages are made to fia spec and pass all standards for the Roll Over Protection Standard and are a complete removeable bolt in unit.

NOW… I’m doing this to gauge interest for a Group Buy before I prepair a really nice buy with the installion of the Cage in my own car as well as another Members S13. The pricing for a complete 6 Point Cage will be $800-$900 depending on the amount of people who may like one. If we can get over 5 people the price will be $700-$800. PLEASE keep in mind that you can buy a Cusco Cage for $800USD which does not come with a Braced Hoop or Braced Rear Stays… it also does not come with Side Door Bars.

I have a Cage 90% installed in my S13 at the moment but have caught the flu so have been unable to finish today.

I did make it into work but was unable to stay so I snapped a few quick pictures as I was leaving…

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/Jedi_Car_Fan/outsidefront.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/Jedi_Car_Fan/Pillar-Legroom.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/Jedi_Car_Fan/Inside.jpg

2

Does the price include powder coating or is it just the metal finsh, paint yourself kinda deal?

3

Includes… Powder Coating “black” as well as all the mounting hardware which includes the proper grade Nuts and Bolts.

4

chris and i have been to Jeff’s shop several times this past month watching the progress of this cage and more.

everything appears to be top-notch.

5

Looks pretty good.

I’d like to see some shots of the mounting points, etc.

And also about this: “All cages are made to fia spec and pass all standards for the Roll Over Protection Standard”

Who examined it to determine it’s fia spec? (correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe you need an official to examine the cage before calling it FIA spec).

Not bashing you, I’m actually very interested and I’d like to make sure that it is, in fact, FIA approved.

Some info:
"Cars with homologated FIA cages must present the homologation papers at tech (every time), even if the rest of the car is not homologated (running in open or PGT etc.)

Also acceptable is an FIA recognized “Roll Bar certificate” with valid recognition number and illustrations. Example: RAC-MSA recognition."

So, therefore, you must have the FIA homologation papers before you can take your caged car on the track. I also believe FIA also requires cages to be made 1.75" at the smallest.

6

I’d like to see some pics of the rear where it mounts.

I have already talked to you a bit in PM…

Would you be able to change a few details if we do 5+ cages or does
everyone have to get the same thing?

Reason being I’d want the A-Pillar bar to go right to the bottom of the a-pillar and down thru the dash rather than comming infront of the dash like
in the pics…

7

This is for the Targa Newfoundland Rally Standards which is half FIA half of their own since they insure their drivers/cars.

  • The size of tubing to be used shall be determined from the following table (all dimensions are in inches).

Vehicle Weight No Driver:

Under 1500lb 1500-2000 Over 2000 lb
1.50 x .120 1.75 x .120 2.25 x .120

A S13 will be easy 2000lbs but can be took down a bit… Why I have made the Main hoop 1.75’’ x .120’’ with the rest 1.50’’ because it saves alot of room for the daily driver “myself” but is still completely functional

Now for Solo1 or D1 they have 1.25 x .083’’ for the min tubing size.

I have been in contact with the Targa officials as well as the DOT officials and they each are telling me at this current time their has not been a Roll Cage certifed/test to be stamped with approvel in Canada.

Now I found this on the MTO

a) requiring the use or incorporation of any device or any equipment, in or on any vehicle or any class of vehicle, that may affect the safe operation of the vehicle on the highway or that may reduce or prevent injury to persons using the highway, and prescribing the specifications and regulating the installation thereof;

(b) designating devices and designating an organization to test and mark its approval of any device so designated, and prohibiting the incorporation or use in or on a vehicle of any device so designated that is not marked as approved by the testing organization;

According to both the Targa and DOT officials all this means is that the Cage is if proper design and is properly built as well as mounted to the vehicle proper. ALL the Targa inspectors at the races look for is that.

I will supply each person who wants a Cage with the proper design/blue prints you could say as well as the safety information on the cage etc… which I’m hoping to then take to the MTO and have the Cage checked over to insure it is of proper design etc… and Installed properly which I’m hoping they will then supply a writen notice that the Cage is legal incase I were to get pulled over and hasseled.

We have made/installed many cages into many cars which have been entered into the Targa Newfoundland Rally… 2 of which were complete wrote off but all 4 passengers were safe due to the Cage. I’m 100% sure of them passing the Standard due to already making them and knowing they will hold up.

I will post pictures either late friday or into this weekend of a complete cage bolted together in and out side of the car and have detailed pictures of the mounting positions etc…

8

I can do the pillars throu the dash if that is what you like… If a few people want it then it will be cheaper but that will just be slightly more money. Reason I put them infront the dash was so people would not need to remove the dash “more work to install” but it is not a problem.

9

If I saw these pictures last year … I would of said nice cage.

But once you see O`Brian Motorsports cages … you can compete with quality and pricing (for regular steel and/or chrome moly).

The guys on driftnation talk about him alot, as well he does the majority of the cages for all the cars at Mosport, Shannenville, Toronto Motorsports Complex, etc, & even guys from the US - goes to him. Hes always has 2 if not 3 cars on the go at all times, hes a one man show.

Ronald will install any type of creation of a cage into any car - no exeptions. To see his calibre or work is next to none - You get what you pay for and more.

talk to turbo_4ag … he got a 4point, with a rear X brace, and a support for his four point harness … for $750. - the car is super stiff

FYI - turbo_4ag is the owner of the Corolla (Drift Car) an Performance World

O`Brian Motorsports @ 416-803-1284

10

hmmm $750 for a 4pt when I’m offering a 6pt for $800?

11

This is a Cusco Cage which seems to be pretty popular they sell I’m pretty sure for $800usd and as you can see do not have a harness bar, braced hoop or braced rear stays. They also will not pass the Roll Over Protection Standard… so why people buy them is beond me.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/Jedi_Car_Fan/dsc00003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/Jedi_Car_Fan/dsc00005.jpg

12

Ya I Know - but how can you put a price on safety.

Besides yours is bolted in - and his is weld.

Your reputation is on the line … and if the buyer does not install it properly as per your instructions - and they get in a car accident of some kind. How would you fell - if your system fails because the cage was not bolted in properly and/or modified.

Have you seen Ronalds work … if you have you could not put a price on safety. Nor would you make a comment like that.

Instead of showing other cages – show us yours (complete) - all of it

[quote
hmmm $750 for a 4pt when I’m offering a 6pt for $800]

13

hmmm… no where does it say that I will not install the cage and that I’m making the buyer do it.

like I stated already I’ve put cages that are 100% bolt in, into cars which have passed and raced in the Targa Newfoundland Rally and have even had cars crash and been totalled but nothing went wrong with my cage or the fact that it was bolted in.

If a bolt in Cage was un-safe… then they would not allow the use of it.

I’m not putting a cost on safety… If someone would like their cage welded into their car then thats fine… its actually less work! I’ve posted it as a bolt in unit so that people will be able to remove it or install it at any time.

I’m fighting off the Flu which I have also stated which is why I have been unable to make it into work to get pictures of the finished product.

All I meant by cost is for $750 your contact is selling a 4 point cage… whether its welded or not… and I’m selling a 6 point cage completely powder coated with all mount hardware for $800. and my cages pass the roll over standard for protection.

Why would someone pay $750 for a 4pt when for $50 more they could get a 6 point ? even if the two met the exact same standards. now for $800 you can buy a 6point and remove the front or rear section making it a 4 point and you still have the option at a 6 point.

Detailed Pictures will be posted Tomorrow… “saturday april 2nd”

14

You think cuz its weld in it is worth more???

It is much harder to build couplings and bolt in mounts for the uprights to bolt to the main hoop etc… then to just put it in and tack in right in place then weld. Unless he is building the cage outside the car then cutting the roof off the car to put it in.

I worked as a pipe fitter/welder for amost 3 years. I have a little understanding of how something comes together and what it takes. It is not always as easy as you think.

15

Maybe I should reword what I am trying to say.

A bolt in cage takes more time and effort to make which in turn would make it more expensive. It also take more material.

16

My opinion:

anyone that is putting a cage in their car should put enough effort in to install it properly. The entire cage looks great, except where it comes right infront of the dash.

You have a couple problems now:

  1. it looks bad
  2. if you want to remove the deash (more important for S14 than S13) you need to pull the cage out. If some people welded their plates to the floor that isn’t happening any time soon.
  3. it looks bad
  4. it reduces visibility

I think you should take the dash out
build the cage to hug the a-pillar as much as you can and be at such an angle that it does not reduce visibility (so the driver and passenger bars may even be in slightly differnet locations relative to the pillar)

And THEN - this is where the real money is - make a GOOD GOOD template for where people should cut out a “U” in their dash, so the dashboard could slip in and out. If properly designed you would not see the cut out in teh dash and it would look PIMP, NOT reduce visibility and dash removal would be no problem.

Lastly if you want to be SUPER SUPER pimp, make little clips that go in the empty space infront of the roll cage that pop out when you want to remove the dash.

Other than that looks great, and huge props for taking the initiative and actually doing it man! awesome stuff

17

I fully understand what you are meaning to an extent I suppose…

  • The cages are installed proper “whether the pillar is infront of or throu the dash” that is more of a personal preference rather then a safety standard say.

  • If you did need to remove the dash then you just have to remove the front pillars from the main hoop… so a few minutes to un-bolt the front section. “but eaiser and quicker to install, will not have to remove the dash or modify the dash support bar”

  • As for Welding… with a Bolt in unit the mounting points have to be sandwitched between the floor… ONLY the bottom plate which is under the car to begin with must be welded to the floor etc…

I have no problem doing these cages for people as a bolt in unit or as a welded in unit… “personal preference”

I also have no problem putting the Pillars throu the Dash for those who would like it done that way.

At this time I’m only offering them for the S13 hatch as that is what I have and what I have access to fit a cage into. I will be fitting a friends Coupe soon enough… and if someone like yourself Sasha is interested in a cage for the S14 with the pillars throu the dash then we can work out something! I just need the car to fit is all.

18

sounds good man you never know :wink:

if it met FIA and CASC standards and wrapped the car extreamly tight i would be very interested in having you build me a cage! and hopefully help out and build it with you

19

First of all - there is a huge difference between a bolt in kit and a weld in kit. A bolt in kit has a tendancy of moving (no matter how tight the bolts are). That is why any good cage fabricator would not offer a bolt in kit. I Do not see NASCAR, NHRA, or any other race affiliation with a bolt in cage.

I disagree with the dash comment … If you mount the cage thrue the dash - then you can weld a strip of metal from the cage to the A-pillar. This makes the A-pillars a lot stronger.

Have you been at O`Brian Motorsports shop, and seen his work?
Have you tried to get your cage tech approved at Mosport or Shanneville?
Does you cage comply with NHRA rules?

[/quote]

I fully understand what you are meaning to an extent I suppose…

  • The cages are installed proper “whether the pillar is infront of or throu the dash” that is more of a personal preference rather then a safety standard say.

I have no problem doing these cages for people as a bolt in unit or as a welded in unit… “personal preference”

I also have no problem putting the Pillars throu the Dash for those who would like it done that way.

[/quote]

20

[/quote]

Did you read what I siad? This is why i posted the second coment. I knew it would be taken out of context, but i guess that did not help.

I wsa not saying that a bolt in cage is better then a weld in, that is certainly not true. What i did say is that a bolt in takes more work and material. A weld in is better, but also creates an inconvenience with a car that is dialy driven.

I am kinda curious who on SON is going to be raceing in the NHRA??
My car may be fast this summer but I am sure it is not going to qualify for the NHRA and if it did then I am sure I would have the money to put a tubular chassis in it and not drive it daily.