copy and pasted from another forum i visit
and also copy pasted from the other thread i had open…to save space
I picked up a 1991 cbr 600 f2 the other day…it seemed to have a bogging problem…would rip through half of first…bog…pick back up and rip to 12.5k…go into second and bog again…went to start it yesterday and didn’t realize the kill switch was engaged so i’m sure i flooded it out. Went to try and start it today(kill switch not engaged lol) and it wouldn’t start…backfired a few times but thats the most of it…i was going with a plug fouled problem in the first place seeing that it would bog like it would…i had asked the previous owner if he used a fuel additive during the time he had it(approx 2 years) during winter months and he said no…so now i’m guessing both the plugs and carb’s need adressed…where do i start? replace the plugs and see if she starts…then get the carbs cleaned? Anything else that could be wrong? you guys know more than i do so i’m depending on you
[quote=“xlogic”"]
Who does their own service and who takes their bikes in to a shop/dealership to have things done? i need the plugs on my cbr changed and i have never worked on a bike before so i don’t exactly trust myself doing anything…
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[quote=“prhockey21"”]
I do almost all my work myself. Plugs are pretty simple. Just don’t have alot of room to work with.
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[quote=“flyinglow57"”]
yeah i do my work. a dealer is gonna get you good on something like that. its not too hard. you have to loosen the tank and then prop it up with a rod (if you still have the factory tool set there should be something in there for it) and then take the coil packs off and pull the plugs its not too too difficult. but if you dont trust yourself dont do it. and double check the gap on the plugs before you put them in. my buddy put them in and had a .009 gap… yeah it didnt run good.
buy me a case of yuengling or miller and ill do it while you help at my house one day off thurs friday.
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[quote=“xlogic”"]
pm sent
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[quote=“noahTHEpurdy”"]
Mike, my dad’s been a bike mechanic for 25 years now. If you have any questions on anything, let me know and I can get you in touch with him.
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[quote=“Sight N Sound”"]
Do the work yourself, Get a real Service Manual for the bike not one of those shitty hyanes manuals.
Unless it is major really no need to go to the dealership. Just take your time.
Also if you do need someone to do the work take it to some place like Road Rash on 30 in Irwin. Adam will treat you a lot better than an actual dealership especially since your bike is used and you didn’t buy it from a dealership.
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[quote=“xlogic”"]
i may end up taking it there…i did the plugs myself but i’m putting the spotlight on the carbs now…after the plugs it started up fine…still bogs a little but not as bad…all new gas in the system so i know it’s not old gas…just a getting hot problem now
I would definetly take the carbs of in one piece so you don’t screw up the linkage and have to get them re sync’d. drop the bowls on em and take out all 3 jets in each carb. get lots of gumout and spray the shit outta them making sure it flows through them. if they are really gummed up you might need to get a small metal wire or something to stick through them to free up the crap. Right down the numbers on the jets while your in there so later you can find out if they are stock or upgraded to bigger ones. see if you can find the clearance for the float level and make sure its in speck too. clean out the bowls and slap em back together. you may also want to see which number they have the needle set at too incase you want to drop or raise em if it still to rich or lean afterwards. probably needs plugs too. you can do the carb job in about an 1hr or 2 yourself as long as the linkage doesn’t get fucked with and need reset.
do plugs first… and see how it runs. (easier and cheaper) then if it doesnt run right. deal with gettin the carbs sync’d like stated before in other thread about your plugs
i managed to find the shop manual for the bike, i feel confident enough to tinker around with a few things…plugs are easy after looking at it(don’t know why i doubted myself earlier) i’ll read the carb section of the manual a few times before i screw around with though
Carbs look harder than they really are. just take the cables and everything off em to get them off the bike just don’t remove any of the actual throttle linkage that connects each carb together. drop the bowls, take out the jets from the bottom, clean everything and put it back together. after you do it 1 time you’ll be like, oh thats not hard. garrentee thats where the running prob is.
oh might wanna take off the valve on the bottom of the gas tank that turns the gas on and off cause there is a tiny filter sticking out the top of it that might be clogged, dump out all the old gas too.
how many miles? might also want to check air filter and valve shim clearance if it is high miles or hasn’t been done. that is also assuming the f2’s used shims.
new plugs and it started right up…has more power than it did when i got it but still bogs down a bit…so to the carbs the spotlight shifts…also…something that didn’t please me too much…and may have me get my money back and return this bike…when sitting it gets hot…like 1/4 inch from the line right before the red hot…but when riding it drops waaaaaaay down to like a 1/4 inch above the cool line…before i get ants in my pants about this i’m going to check the thermostat since its pretty much right where i already was for the right side plug. coolant looks more like water than it does coolant so i’ll probably flush that also and see…any ideas
since you have the book look and see if it needs periodic valve lash adjustments or whatever. like above post says most 4 cyl sport bikes use the shim and bucket style cam and lifters and need adjusted or checked every so often.
check the vacuum lines while you do the carbs too, that might make it bog.
Not sure if this really applies to this area, but I know that a good many of my friends in other locations wouldn’t run green or orange coolant typical to cars. Most of them would runs something like Water Wetter or 50 below. These are coolants that look more like water and they do not prevent freezing. The condition you are describing sounds a whole lot like an air pocket in the coolant system somewhere or a bad thermostat.
Did you get the bike from a dealer or private seller?
I opened the rad cap and removed it…let the engine run from cold for 15 minutes to remove any air that may have been in the system…replaced the cap…ran it again…seemed to go back up again…
What noise you talking about, the whining or the tapping? i don’t know if you can tell but see if both of the coolant hoses, 1 in and 1 out of rad get hot to make sure the thermostat is opening? does the fan turn on also? see if there is a bleeder hole on the head or wherever you need to crack open to let the air out. should tell you in the manual.
I would assume the tapping is the valves. probably need adjusted. Im not quite sure how you adjust them though, think you need to find thicker shims to replace the older ones, where you get them idk.
shims can be found at the dealer or sometimes on ebay or old bike mechanics you can find full sets. If you go the dealer route, make sure you check the lash first so you can get in the ball park. Also, you can change them between cylinders too. That is most likely where the tap is coming from, especially at 17+k.
Valve job may help your stumble, but it is probably in the carb somewhere. Some jet not opening fully or out of synch between the 4, or fuel mix screw needs adjusting, or maybe even a diaphram with a slight tear.
Did anyone think for a min since he is new to motorcycles, it may just be making the normal engine sounds. He has to remember he is sitting on top of an engine and not inside a car with all kinds of sound dampening.
I know when I first got into bikes a lot of normal noises drove me insane till I got used to them and realised I was sitting ontop of a small car motor (2001 ZX-12R)
My current bike taps like a SOB when warming up and I bought it brand new and that is normal as well.
I took that into account myself…but the “chattering noise” just seems weird to me…i let noahs dad watch the video…he has been working on bikes longer than i’ve been alive…said it sounds like its close to needing the valves adjusted…and after reading up on the cbr600f2s…the cam chain tensioner seems to be something else on these bikes thats known to “chatter”…we shall see
Alot of the late 90’s early 00’s model F4i’s have had cam chain tensioner trouble after you get some miles on them. If its the tensioner its alot louder then the valves would be under some throttle in neutral. If your new to bikes i wouldnt attempt to fix either of these yourself.
