Well I just came back last night from driving around and smelled smoke when I exited the car. Both rear rotors were glazed and I could feel the heat from outside the wheels! There was no smoke when driving, and I didn’t hear anything out of the ordinary, but they were piping hot afterwards.
I had installed z32 front brakes (calipers/rotors/pads/stainless steel lines) and converted to 5-lug hubs all around over the weekend. I replaced the rear calipers with a new set of stock s14 ones (the old ones were leaking fluid everywhere) and changed the rotors/pads, as well.
Could it be due to:
Caliper piston not fully retracting when letting off the brakes and thus, causing constant friction between the pads and the rotor?
Not replacing the stock S14 14/16" BMC (not sure if this would have anything to do with it)
Some other object (ie. splash shield. making contact with the rotors at all times)
The calipers don’t appear ceased. On jacks, I can rotate the rear tires just fine.
From what I read, this is very normal for Z32 front/stock rears using a 14/16" BMC. There is a lot of play with the pedal.
I’ll try bleeding the rears again tonight. We bled the rears first, then the fronts. We found there was still air in the BMC, so we bled that afterwards. Maybe I need to check the lines again.
Bleed the BMC first. Bench bleed it. Look that up if you don’t know what it is.
Then bleed in the pattern it says in the FSM. Rear driverside, rear pass side, front pass side, front driver side. I believe this is the correct pattern. Somebody please correct me if im wrong.
We changed the rear rotors, pads and calipers over the weekend. The old rotors were charred - shades of violet&red when I took them off.
We flushed all the brake fluid, bench bled the MC and bled the lines, furthest away from the MC first. The pedal feel was improved after this.
After some driving, parked the car and noticed the same issue.
The one other thing I noticed was the rear 5-lug hub&bearings I installed were VERY stiff to turn. The 4-lugs I took off were very smooth and can turn with no effort required.
Would this cause the overheating issue? If so, how can I disassemble hub/bearing to lubricate/fix it?
i was about to say the bearings. but i can’t really see them bearing making the brakes go red hot. especially because if the bearing is tight as fack it makes it’s easier for the brakes to stop the car.
also you would have one hell of a noise. but since you changed everything but. and say the bearings are tight as shat. adjust/grease/or replace them.
only other thing would be proportioning valve (non-abs) holding pressure not releasing. M/C doing the same or flex lines.
are u a “racecar” driver? casue heavy braking can cause that it happend to my jeep right after i replaced the callipers rotors and pads thats why i bought a 240 try getting some cross drilled rotors or vented ones and ud know if the callipers were sizied casue u wouldnt be able to get the piston back enough when u put the new pads in but thats my input
I mentioned earlier that I replaced my new calipers with my old ones a couple nights ago (my old ones were always working - 1 was just leaking fluid, so I changed both) …even with my old calipers, the rears are burning up after about 10 minutes of driving.
Could I have damaged the flex hoses or the master cylinder during the install? I left the calipers dangling off the flex hoses without really tying them.
The next thing I will try is disconnecting the ebrakes completely and seeing if it still overheating.
the only thing I can think of is the ebrake dragging, but you said you can rotate the rear tires fine… Does the car coast and roll fine?
Unless your proportioning is messed up, hows your stopping power? Does it feel biased towards the front, does the car dive if you brake hard?