Last weekend i replaced my rear stock OEM pads with stock OEM pads.
And i was driving with the pads for 1 week and i noticed the rear right side was heating up alot. I found this stange because the left side, the rims were completely cold. I was told from a mecahinc that my rear right caliper is seized.
This weekend i retuned my stock OEM pads and returned them for new ones. I compared the wear after one week from the left rear side (barly worn in) and the right rear side (cracks and edges were smooth)
I replaced the rear right caliper with a new one and it is mint and woks amazing. However i put it on and bleed the brakes properly. Took it out tonight and the rim is still heating up. I looked at the pad but at night time it was hard to see if its wearing like before.
I would like someone to give me some advice, tips, help? How long do you need to drive around in new pads for them to be broken in? Can someone possibly help me find the problem…
i took the ebrake cable off when i was replacing the pads because i had to replace the whole caliper. I think i might know what it is…
Last week i decided to take off my e-brake boot because the ebrake light would always come on and it would sit against the spring screw that disengages the light so i tightened the cable and i think i may have tightened it too tight…
The sad thing is i never checked my rear right rims when i had my worn away pads so i don’t know if it was ever oheating but the minute i put on the new pads and the ebrake was tightened - i started to smell the brakes and it is only on the right rear side
The dude at Midwest Calipers (160 Midwest Rd) told me i need new brake lines… but i don’t understand - i’ll loosen it up and see if it works
if the inner layer of your brake line is brital or kinded it wont let the the brake fluid flow back therefore holding the brake on. loosen the bleeder screw on the calaper to release the pressure and see if the wheel will turn more freely. dont brake the bleeder screw.