quick trouble shoot for someone who has encountered this:
Z32 fronts, stock rears.
pretty much new hardware on all corners.
had all the calipers and sliders off the other day and sil-glyded them up good.
bled all the calipers and the pedal feel was shit, the car was not stopping at all.
sasha advised me that my Z32 calipers might be on the wrong side of the car (bleeder screw was on the bottom = no air gets out during bleeding)
i switched them up and bled the fronts only because the rears had been bled many times.
the pedal feel is now good but the brakes are not gripping.
i CAN stop, but it is very very slow to stop. i literally have to hammer the brakes and keep my foot plunged in order to achieve what should only take 5% of the same pressure.
the e-brake is working well though.
so…
is this a bleeding problem? should i rebleed everything?
does this sound like a master cylinder problem? using stock master.
what the dilly?
30mm fronts
HP+ pads
brembo blanks
brand new stainless lines
OEM rear everything
i was told the pads needed to seat but i HIGHLY doubt that is the cause here
sounds like u have a severe case of pad float…check if ure running the right rotors, and check if ure running the right pads…sounds like they might be a lil to thin to me…also because ure car was sitting for a while, i would double check all the break lines for leaks.
step 1.) is the brake fluid level going down? if yes you have leak-fic ix , if no then you dont have a leak and go to step 2
step 2.) bleed a like a mofo, gravity bleed first open all the bleeders and let it drip out keep filling master cylinder as you go along then do a regular bleed starting at the furthest cliper and working oyur way to the drivers side caliper, if problem is fixed, drive, if not go to step 3
step 3.) remove calipers (do not undo lines) check pads and rotors for smoothness if smooth take some brake cleaner and clean off rotors and pads well, then take some 120 grit sand paper and sand down the pads and rotors well, clean off again, re-assemble then spray brake cleaner again and make sure the sil-glide is not dripping on to pad/rotors… if fixed go drive car and then make me some chicken balls if not go to step 4
step 4.) pull hose off of vaccum booster while car is not running, should make a sucking pop kinda liek when getting a blowjob and the girl pulls it out mid-suck, if it makes the noise you do not have a leaky brake booster, if it does not make the noiseyou have one of 2 problems, bad/leaky brake booster or a bad check valve, to check the check valve you have to take the check valve off and blow into it , if it blows both ways you have a bad valve -repalace it, if its good re-install it but make sure the side you blow that doesnt let air in is facing the motor side, so if you were to blow from the booster side it would open, if it didnt make the pop and the check valve is good you have a bad booster-replace- thew rason why the popping noise happens is due to the check valve being sucked shut5 form the booster side when vaccum is taken away from the motor side resulting in a n atomospheric condition , bosster should hold vaccum when car is shut off
if problem is fixed go drive and then make me some chicken balls, if not go to step 5
Step 5.) replace master cylinder, if fix good go make me some chicken ball, fuck the ride im hungry, if no fix make me some fucking chicken balls all this typing is making me hungry, and then ill drive to where you at and fix the fucking problem