Im going threw this for the 1st time and im a bit nervous. I have a cometic headgasket and arp headstuds. Id like to know how much to torque the headstuds and the torque sequence and torque when i tighten down the head to the block. I havnt got anything done to the head or block…Im thinking ill just sand it with a block and make sure its strait.
Installing the cams and timing chain im leaving up to a friend but can someone tell me the markings and how to set up the timing so he can figure it out a fair bit easyer. im trying to get this all done in a weeks time tops. Thanks in advance.
you just snug those arp head studs in. by snug i mean you go to snug then a quarter turn.
hey dont need to be in there with wookie strength or anything
i think APR’s site has it on torque specs not 100% sure thought
as for timing chain, it should be similar to a KA
if u a putting new chain on, then just match the dot on the cam/crank gears to the special(polished looking) plate on the chain, well atleast thats how it goes on the KA, just make should that the crank is at the correct stroke(piston 1 is @ TDC)
My last questons are how do i know of the timing chain has skipped a tooth or two on the crank while my head was off. If it did would i have to remove the timing chain cover and move it over a tooth by tooth?
Looking at the crank pully theres a few markings i should be lining the cams/cas up while its at the 2nd last mark to the left? (if your looking from the front of car at it) Like so
What should the final torque on the head bolts be?
10 and 2o clock are the proper markes for a sr, i had to change my cas when i had a accident. TDC on 1st cylinder and the one on the intake side should be at 10(right) and the left one should be at 2(exhaust) www.heavythrottle.com has the whole spheel on this motor.
Im a lot more confident thanks guys. What kind of prep should i do to the block and head before installing the arp headstuds/cometic hg and head. Im going to use permatex copper sealant on the HG from carquest.
you should check the head frist to see if it is straight. if its not then have it milled, do not sand it down by hand. you also have a bent valve so cheak the valve seat and chamber for any dents or chips. now is a good time to change your valve seals aswell.
also, if you feel like it, port it. its already off why not have some fun. clean up the casting marks on the intake and exhaust. and then do some work to the exhaust bowl and short radius. nothing crazy, may give your turbo quicker spool up. if it was me thats what i would do.
have u checked if ure valves touched pistons at all anywhere?
usually mis shifts on sr20s will cause that so make sure before u spend time and money assembling…get the whole rotating assembly checked well…
good luck !
your attemting to basicly make the engine go over 10 000rpm or so. The peices are so hot and fragile. I screwed up horribly when my shifter knob bent 45 degrees and i dropped from 3rd to second on the dragstrip.
When using metal head gaskets you have to have perfectly flat surfaces or you’re wasting your time… check your deck for straightness and have your head plained its worth knowing you wont have any problems.
