so im pulling the head on my sr. Anyone have any tips thats done it… dan im looking at you. im going on the s14 sr fsm… any comments/help is appreciated.
just untorque them in a few stages… (not all the way… but a little each time)
follow the correct sequence for each round of loosening, which is:
…4…8…10…6…2
engine front [ () () () () () ]
…3…7…9…5…1
engine front [ () () () () () ]
do i have to pull the cams or just the cam sprockets. cause i really dont want to pull them but i heard that some of the bolts are under them…
anything else i have to move?
doing it yourself with no experience = disaster.
That’s just discouraging dude.
If you take some time to research into what’s involved, then it’s doable.
You think mechanics were taught to know every kind of motor out there? :roll:
im just speaking from what ive seen in my experiences, and i get the same thing from these people all the time, its worth more to get it done right the first time. If you dont have any money and have no choice but to do it yourself, your taking a huge risk, but if you have the money get it done professionally.
you dont even know my experience… i just dont know the location of all the bolts once its open… i didnt ask you to judge me…
and btw i have been building motors since i was a kid. im not going to elaborate because i dont care what you think anyway…
why does this always happen on this board…
if you have done this before then please chip in and throw down some tips, id appreciate it…
if not then shut your f*cking mouth, im tired of the adolescence on this board.
Cams have to come out to get the head bolts under them. This also exposes the rockers so you will have to remove them and the lifters. Have a place you can put all the pieces so you can keep their orientation the same when you put it back together. The bearing caps are marked but that’s about it. Be careful not to lose/drop/misplace the shims that sit on the valve stems.
thank you! cheers to someone with some knowledge
Be sure to have your #1 cylender at top dead center and make sure you mark all the timeing marks so as to make reinstall easier also do not let the timeing chain fall into the timeing cover…FSM say’s it will not come off the gear but I do not trust that. Good luck and just ask if you need more help.
Just a tip to make your life easier,
Zip tie the chain to the timing gears tight so they can’t slip off, then undo the gears from the cams. That way you can put everything back the way it was.
There’s tons of FSMs floating around online (even a dirty Chiltons will do).
If you have a camera available, I’d also suggest taking a bunch of pics before you take anything apart. If you end up desperate later trying to figure out what goes where, knowing where you started can be a big help.
thats a good tip… but if i zip tie the chain to the gears will i still have enough space to get the head out, i can picture it getting in the way??
Dunno if it matters, but in the current Super Street (the one with the
1400HP SCION on the cover), they show you how to remove the head on
an SR blacktop motor.
I’ll try and scan the article(s) tonight…they aren’t full of details but they do
give you a few pointers here and there.
:dunno:
Keeping the chain out doesn’t matter in the slightest except to stop it from jamming if you decide to turn it. In fact, letting it slide down a bit will get it out of the way so you can clean the deck surface properly. You will notice the chain tensioner has a little clip and pin on the side of it. Before you go to put it back together the tensioner needs to be pushed “in” (away from the chain) and that the clip latched to the pin, holding the tensioner back.
Install the head next. Again, Having the chain down in the block makes it was easier and also stops you from dragging oil all over what is supposed to be a grease/oil free surface.
Once the head is on and bolted in properly put the cams in. At this point you can still have the chain down in the bottom. Just get a piece of wire to hook it and pull it up slowly. Put the timing marks on the crank pulley to ZERO degrees. Then with the exhaust sproket and in the right place relative to the head surface, pull the chain taught from the driver side of the car. You should be taking the slack up on that side simulating the engine turning over. Be careful not to pull the crank off the zero mark and make sure the position of the exhaust cam stays right WRT the head.
Now, count 20 (I think) pins towards the intake cam. That is where the mark on the intake lines up. With the sproket still in your hands put it in the approximate area being sure to line up the right links. All you have to to now is line the intake cam up to the sproket to allow the two to mate. Put in the intake sproket bolt, doesn’t have to be torqued yet.
To check it turn the engine over at least two rotations clockwise. (this gets you back to TDC). If you kept the chain taught as you installed it and counted the proper pins as per the instructions on rs-enthalpy.com everything will line back up again. The tensioner should have also unlatched itself but now, you might have to turn the crank counter clockwise a bit first to make sure it does.
You will note it makes NO DIFFERENCE where the marked links are on the chain. Infact, forget they are even there. There is no point and it will just confuse you, plus you can’t double check it later on anyway. It also doesn’t matter where the crank is when you take it apart, you line it up later. The only thing it saves it turning the crank over with a loose chain that wan’t to jam but if you can’t figure out how to do that you shouldn’t be taking the head off in the first place.
There is a wedge tool you can buy to keep the chain from falling. It’s what we use at work. Works very well know problems yet. You should be able to get a cheap one at princess auto. It Has a string on it.
sory for the thread jack but what does it usualy cost to have your head taken off?
$20 bux for the bouncer, $20 bux per song
B.Y.O.S. (Bring Your Own Scissors)
