You’re a new member and all…but what? Hate to correct you…but I need to make some corrections. I’ve been round the block when it comes to lighting (have had custom retrofits, harnesses, etc.).
55w halogens are NOT the same as 55w HID’s. 55w HID’s are WAY hotter than 55w halogens.
Put your hand over a headlight with a halogen bulb and you may feel some heat. Put your hand over a headlight with a 55w HID bulb in there and you will feel much more. Do the same on the fog light and you will end up with a nice blister burn after touching a fog light that is running a 55w HID bulb. Hell, you might even burn your hand with one running 35w (depending on the construction of the light assembly).
This is why 55w is not recommended in the fog lights. On many cars, specifically those with plastic lenses, it will crack the lens or burn the inside.
Also…if you are experiencing flickering issues…you DO need a harness. Do you know what the harness does? It connects your power for the kit directly to the battery…thus giving it more ‘juice’ on startup. The reason why it flickers is because a lot of OEM wiring can’t handle the initial draw. I have this issue on my Infiniti. Got the harness, no more startup problems.
A Resistor, when it comes to car lighting, is typically used on LED bulbs when applied to the side markers/turn signals. This prevents the ‘rapid blinking’ that happens when using such a bulb in such an application.
Fixed
Also, temperature is different than wattage… A 55W halogen draws the same power as a 55W HID… except when starting up! When the HID lamp initially lights it draws over 55W. I would recommend a relay and direct/fused battery connection.