again people nick said he confirmed spark why would we be listing components that when not working show no spark
he never said how he confirmed spark
if no spark> check fuel, if no fuel> check timing> if timing is right > check ecu
sounds very very similar to an ecu prob I ran into a few years ago.
spark - check
fuel - check
timing - check
why the fuck won’t you start?
way too much fucking fuel - check
bad ecu, basically the injectors were just dumping copious amounts of fuel.
If what andy is saying is true go rent a noid kit from autozone. You can then watch the injector pulse. My guess welding with the battery hooked up sent power and shorted your ecu. This also happens if you hook up battery cables the wrong way
yeah, I figure at this point it is one of two things…after new plugs and setting them on the exhaust manifold to verify spark(got it)…
either when the motor fell from the mount, it broke the oil pump and i have no oil pressure now, or the ECU is shorted out. Kinda hoping its the ECU at this point, def. not going to do a swap on this car…
AndyB is going to check it out with me at somepoint this week, maybe i can coerce(sp?) him to bring a noid kit.
hes got fuel and spark no problems there. Only thing I can think happened is this:
When the motor fell when it was going down the road it could have snapped the oil pump neck to the pick up, slipped the time due to the impact on the engine when the timing components were moving or when he had the battery still connected when he grounded the new engine mount he could have fried the ecu. We will work on it this week.
many things could be going wrong and still get spark… the coil resistance could not be to spec which would make you replace the assembly also having spark on only 1 or 2 wires doesnt mean the others have it. you can check the resistance of the wires… should be less than 30k ohms.
Trust me on this one…try a new distrubutor or that main relay fuse or something on the civic lol. i kno i know it gets spark etc…but my old civic did it…it got everything and still wouldnt start, but once i changed the distributor it cranked right over.
Did the car shut off by it self or did you manual turned it off when the motor dropped?
when we check spark we use a spark tester where we are able to measur how much spark were sending. I know how to diagnose a no start issue.
car was manually shut down
did you try the WD40?
all i have at the shop is PB blaster and THRUST…so i was unable to try this.
you can try the pb… may work… you need to kill some of the gas
Thanks for all your hep guys. I still do not know whats wrong with the civic and it will have to wait till saturday to find out. I will keep you updated
if you need an ecu to borrow, gimme specs of the car and I’ll hook you up with a chipped ecu for your setup just to see if that’s the issue.
well thanks I might have to take you up on that
Just let me know, and I can take car of the chip for it and I can leave it at Swerve. Just come by and pick it up. But when that works, I can then sell you the ECU if you’d like, OR you have to bring it back (I’m not baggin on you personally, but it seems whenever I let someone borrow something, I have to go pick it up from them when they are through with it, which is really fucked up).
car is a 92 hatch, but has a 94 EX d16z6 swapped in. A computer to see if it starts would be PRIMO. I’m gonna try to work on this thing on saturday
gotcha. I’ll put something together for you and drop it off at swerve. I won’t be around saturday at all, but paul should be there. I’ll keep you updated.
quick update, Spent the day diagnosing things on the car and such. Pulled the oil sending unit and tossed in an oil pressure gauge. Car is seeing pressure as i can see the oil making its way up the tubing. spark is good on all four cylinders and timing is in line. Bought a NOID light kit and injector pulse width is normal, but its still dumping WAY too much fuel. So at this point I think its pretty safe to say its the ECU. now to find a reasonably priced P28…