what tools do i need to do this . also how do i bleed my brakes .your help and info is appriciated.thanks
peter
like other then a socket set and ratchet ? lol…
you need a wrench or a “line” wrench to bleed the brakes “or loosen off the bleeder screws”
the 180sx rotor is bigger then the dust shild/splash guard so you either gotta remove it, bend it outta the way, or cut it “which is what i did”
Hey Peter
It’s not too difficult depending on what parts you got… don’t know what tools you’ll need unless I know what parts you’re swapping! Just the calipers or the whole hub?
To bleed the brakes, you take some clear bleeding hose and put it over the nipple on the caliper. Then you open the valve (10mm nut/nipple thing) as a buddy presses the pedal, and close it and the pedal returns. Keep the resevoir topped up. Repeat until there are no more air bubbles coming out.
a line wrench would be your best bet if the nut is on there really tightly… but normally the brake fluid will prevent it from siezing too badly, and a normal wrench should work. Just don’t strip it.
17mm socket, breaker bar, ratchet, hammer, 10mm flair wrench, and a socket to remove the lugnuts.
i have socket wreches and other tools . looks like i will have to go to partsource to borrow the tools i don’t have and will need.
axelrod it’s the whole hub.
thanks guys
Ok, when you take the hub off the lower arm, make sure you don’t break the cotter pin, and you’ll need a big hammer to get the stud out. Remeber to leave the nut on the top of the stud when you hammer it or you’ll wreck the threads.
anyone else find that when you installed the 180SX caliper the line between the caliper and the strut (where it’s clipped in place) is a little too short??
I can get it to go into the stock position but the line from there to the caliper seems tight compared to stock…
I could ‘cheat’ and make the brake line not go through the two posts on the caliper and that would add slack but obviously it’s like that for a reason… i.e. the line doesn’t help to unthread the bolt…
do you have to bleed the actuator under the hood as well? (if your car came with it)
anyone else find that when you installed the 180SX caliper the line between the caliper and the strut (where it’s clipped in place) is a little too short??
I can get it to go into the stock position but the line from there to the caliper seems tight compared to stock…
I could ‘cheat’ and make the brake line not go through the two posts on the caliper and that would add slack but obviously it’s like that for a reason… i.e. the line doesn’t help to unthread the bolt…
do you have to bleed the actuator under the hood as well? (if your car came with it)