not on a turbo car
a turbo cars plugs will always be dark dark brown - usually black
dont throw parts at your problem figure out what it is first
I highly suggest removing your ECU… pop it open and check out if it has been “chipped”
If you got a Mines ECU those are known to run lean so if indeed its a mines… pitch it and get a stock ECU
and this^?
OK GUYS today i took a turbo coupler, made a plastic plug on the end and fitted a pressure gauge 0-15psi very accurate and used a bycicle pump and hooked it up to the pipe that goes to the turbo outlet, hey guess what, its leaking out ? and where ? ok hooked itup passed the bov, still pressure doesnt go up, so than i hooked it up past the intercooler and hey it wen tup
it drops slowly like 5-10 seconds for 1psi to drop but that wouldnt be considered a vacuum leak ? too insignificant, anyway, so i figured it’d be my cooler so i plugged one end, plugged stock bov line, hooked up to the inlet and it didnt hold, i popped it out and the stock flange of one of the cast pipes on the intercooler is CRACKED, has a huge crack and leak marks, THATs WHY IT WAS SO LAGGY AND I COULDNT DRIFT IT, but i still dont see how it would makethe car lean out, wouldnt it make it rich instead ? WTB SMIC SR the pipe piece or the whole assembly… lmk…
use jb weld to fix that crack. you can get it a ct
JB Weld is for hack jobs…
I suggest cleaning it extremely well and have someone weld it proper.
vlad if its not aluminum I can weld it up for you. I don’t have the welder with me tho at the moment. But the offer is there if you have access to a mig.
Andrew.
ok guys i replaced my intercooler, it now runs rich on idle, but still lean when i floor it, in fact, it misses even more around 4000rpm, my blitz bov leaks so i made a plate and covered up the flange (not it doesnt leak i pressure tested it) and I tried to use my stock but i pressure tested it and it leaks as well ? wtf m8 ? I NEED TOO BORROW SOMEONES BOV FOR SUNDAY AND POSSIBLY A FPR!!! OMGWTFBBQ…
stock bov’s are made to open at idle to bypas the turbo… which is why it leaks.
as for the blitz no idea.
if you’re missing around 4000 gap your plugs down to .8mm instead of the 1mm they are speced at.
You’re blowing out the spark due to crappy worn out coil packs…the rb does it all the time.
Dude… have you removed your ECU, opened it up yet and confirmed whether or not its a chipped/re-tuned ECU ?
“most” companys when they retune an ECU will alter the Ignition Maps from 4000rpm on and sometimes even Fuel Maps from 4000rpm on (MINES for example)
well in japan… when the ECU is tuned, its normally tuned on 100 octane… so the SECOND you put in 93/94 octane over here, the ECU will lean out a bit for starters, and if the tune is already on the lean side, you’ll lean out even more.
so if I was you, I would take 5 mins out of my busy day, remove the ECU and pop it open because like I said before, if for any reason you have a Mines ECU they are complete JUNK!
Jeff you neglected to mention that the JDM rating system for octane is different, I think they use RON octane where as we use (RON+MON)/2=PON
http://www.btinternet.com/~madmole/Reference/RONMONPON.html
100 RON octane = 95.8 PON
Jeff you neglected to mention that the JDM rating system for octane is different, I think they use RON octane where as we use (RON+MON)/2=PON
http://www.btinternet.com/~madmole/Reference/RONMONPON.html
100 RON octane = 95.8 PON[/quote]
Yes they use RON and not Octane but their 100 RON (or 95.8 Octane) is Regular to them as to where we only get 87 Octane as Regular
So what I meant more so was that ECUs tuned in Japan (like your blitz tune) are tuned on 100 RON atleast “if not higher”
ultra 94 from sunoco is 99ron.
100RON is definitely not regular. 95 is regular, 98 is better, 100 is usually the best.
Maybe there is higher but I haven’t heard of or seen it at typical gas pumps.
sunday is track and today my car got alot worse, first of all it boost creeped to about 20psi so i was like ok shit and unplugged my stock boost controller sensor whatever u wanna call it and just plugged directly from the pipe to the wastegate actuator, ok yea its 7psi, now between 3000 and 4000rpm my car feels like its gonna stall out, what the hell, any ideas ? tomorow im planning to change my plugs and try another ecu, anyone have an ecu they can lend me for the weekend please ? it would be greatly appriciated. thanks!
[quote=“Jedi_Car_Fan”"]
Higher octane will not make you run leaner or richer, it will not affect anything at all to do with your air fuel ratios. it will just prevent detonation since it burns slower and takes more to set it off. The only problem a Mines ecu and 91 octane gas could have is that they advance the timing maps on them which can give you bad detonation with the wrong gas.
PROBLEM SOLVED, it was the MAFS, it was plugged up with stuff, i never though mafs would cause it to just stutter at specific rpm, but hey now you all know, on the way to the solution i fixed all the boost leaks and configured all the vacuum lines properly, and pressure checked all the lines and now I KNOW that its all running properly, thanks for all the great info guys…
if youw anan know how to clean mafs just spray sensor-safe brake cleaner onto a q-tip and wipe your mafs uber gently (pull it off the cylinder obviously using 2 screws on top) and clean it, than let it air dry off…
thanks alot guys…
congrats man, glad to see you got her figured out.