My SR's acting weird. updated. RESOLVED! not SR specific.

Hey,

Until my car is totally warmed up, my SR’s been acting weird. What happens is that it will sapratically make a glub noise (muffled back fire) and the car will lurge forward quickly, there is no pattern to it, the only thing i notice is that it doesn’t happen as much as i’m accelerating, but only when i’m coasting (btw it doesn’t matter if the turbo is spooling and the boost does not change).

any ideas??

`Nik

hey mine does the same thing

i kinda figured it was my clutch getting hot spots when i first start going.

but i really dont know

GT

ahhh, … got to love the random SR problems.

K update!, It doesn’t happen while ideling so unless the car needs to be under load for it to happen, the problem is in the drive train. Doesn’t make sense of it being the clutch because this is happening while engaged cruising along.

… i really need to change the tranny fluid, maybe there is some crap in there.

But this only happens when cold?? then it cant be the clutch i dont think, when mine was slipping it was doing the same thing but even when it was hot soooo cant be clutch.

have you done any electrical work lately? how about changing spark plug wires? you could have a split in the spark plug wires and be shorting out, therefore the sputter, once it warns up the wires soften and close the gap. but i doubt it!! but could try changing plugs

Also could be the MAF, the sensor might be f…ing up which would do the same untill the car warms up.

thatas all i can think of for now

First things first, check all electrical connections for corrosion or a bad connection and check all vacuum lines…do the cheap things first, you dont want to go spend any amounts of money and still have the problem at hand.

yeah, could be electrical, but they are brand new plugs, so i doubt its them, my grounds are pretty bad i’ll double check that. and other wiring. I’ve already purchased new tranny fluid so i’ll do that anyways.
i recently replaced ALL the vacuum lines so its not that, plus my boost gauge doesn’t fluxtuate when it happens.

Thanks for the idea Doba.

I dunno if the SR20DETs do this but my NX2000’s EGR system got stuck slightly open, made idle and low-mid throttle act all funkymunky.

I disconnected the EGR and it worked perfectly fine!
(and passed emissions!)

lol, thanks for the idea but i have no emission equipment hooked up.

Id still check that MAF sensor, my friends uncle has a 300zx which one day started studering like a MOFO and had no idea what it was, especially since it was fine when the car warms up, could just swap a MAF from someone, pretty simple.

hey, that sounds like a more extreme version of what i have. Maybe i’ll do that.

youre right it is more extreme but still worth a try…

Do it Do it Do it (yeah yeah i know its old) :?

hmmm, k i’ve got an update, it seems like this happens only when the engines a certain temperature. In the morning when its cold there is no problem, then once the car is almost fully warmed up it starts, and eventually stops when the engine gets a little hotter. I think it’s always done this, but as the weather has gotten colder, it hits that bad spot for a longer period of time.

:?

i’m still planning on changing the MAFS, and the tranny fluid.

If you want to TEST the MAF you’re more than welcome to rip the one out of my NX (SR20DE) if you don’t already have one. Could save you from buying a part you don’t really need.
I’d need it back eventually of course, but it’s my beater so I don’t care if it’s dead for a few days.

lol, thanks for the offer, i’m going to goto a wrecker probably on sat. so if they want too much for it i might take up your offer.

so the NX2000 MAFS is the same as the 89-90 s13?

I’d be surprised if it wasn’t, it looks identical to the one on my CA18DET…

Hello,

So i got some electrical contact cleaner from canadian tire, removed the asembly, then i removed the actual MAFS from the asembly (remove the 2 screws holding it to the asembly) then i sprayed the bitch down alot, it cleaned the oil that was on it. let it air dry. reinstalled! removed negative terminal from battery for over 10min to reset ECU.

yay! no more stuttering, feels smoother, and i think i got a little bit of power back.

:thumright:

sweet!! so you didnt even need to replace it, just a good clean, glad to hear you back up and runing OK

I’m going to give my CA’s MAF a couple shots of TB cleaner, it’s easy enough to do and probably worthwhile on a car that’s 15 y/o…

i think everyone should! but Max, now i need to make an oil catch can like you mentioned, where do you plan on locating yours?