my car is messed up

my car is seriously completely screwed up now, i replaced the MAF because while checking over my tune in advantage, i noticed the “load with failed MAF” table, and also noticed that it sets load to 70% at 200 rpms at 750maf counts, and reviewed the rest of the table, and in doing so had come to the conclusion that i think my MAF was shot. so i got a new one, and reset the battery, cleared all DTCs, started the datalogger and started the car, still revs rough at idle, try to swing down the street, still bucks like an angry horse when i hit the gas even 1/4 throttle. i have to drive the car like it has 5hp for it to go anywhere smoothly and its really pissing me off. i need this friggen thing running right by thursday so its good to go for carlisle.

i cleaned and gapped the spark plugs(1step colder plugs) to .035, i checked oil(stupid but for the hell of it), the only thing i can think of is the residue in my intake manifold from when my oil drain plugged up and backed oil through all my piping, which i cleaned the hell out of, and i looked into the manifold and there was some crap on the bottom, but i figured it would have cleaned itself out by now. my a/r is between .92 and 1.07(lambda) so thats fine, everything seems great but im getting some really messed up bucking problems. only other thing i can think of is my catch can, so im going to just dump the valve cover to the ground and try that, and the three wires for the coilpack are worn pretty badly right at the connection, i can see wire so im going to fix those up to try that too, im also going to see if i can pick up a new set of spark plugs and try that. if anyone knows what it could be or wouldnt mind taking a look at my datalog PLEASE let me know ASAP

Coolent temp sensor? I know my Firebird did that fierce with a bad wire in the CTS harness.

Basically you’re either going WAY rich and flooding the motor, or loosing spark; only 2 things that would cause that issue.

thats the thing, spark stays perfect, a/f ratio doesnt go anywhere … the car just starts to buck the second the turbo start to spool to like 1psi

i saw it on the gauge a few times once the needle ever STARTS to twitch upwards, teh car starts to buck

load reading occasionaly goes of the fucking chart, while driving it home the night we had the problems we were doing 2800 rpms, and i asked nick to sloooowly give it gas and bring the rpms up and he did. going from 2800 to 3000 rpms with slight throttle presure cause the load reading to shoot up to 119%

how the fuck does load shoot to 119% ?

the other thing it likes to do is give su a whacky rpm reading ever now and again, and by whacky, i mean it tells us “NEGATIVE 1600 rpms”

and both problems are just one blip on the radar and they are gone, the datalog just shows a spike, the problem never lasts any longer then it takes to make the graph spike

wtf ?

Maybe a boost leak? Does your car exhibit the same symptoms with the MAF unplugged?

car will not run at all without the maf in place

some cars just stumble around and can rev slightly if the maf isnt in, but this car refuses to run or start back up if the maf isnt connected

:word: i agree with him.

it seems like its dumping too much fuel as soon as the turbo spools, i mean i know what the datalogger says having seen it myself, but that really seems what it feels like. try new plugs, and possibly wires. if that doesnt solve it, then its gotta be something with the fuel

try new plugs with a tighter gap

make sure you are getting GOOD spark, and dont have a bad cable or coil.

if you’re using a resistor box check it and make sure its working properly as well.

the thing is, is it was running fine with the same gap ealier that day (im almost positive it was the same gap)

I am leaning toward ignition wires on this one…aside from a boost leak.

if that thing has a boost leak…then idk where, we took off all the ic piping, cleaned it(after his oil mishap) then made sure all the clamps were tightend with a wrench, unless its the bov leaking, idk where a boost leak would be

Just an odd question, seeing as it does that at 1/4 throttle. Maybe try disconnecting a charge pipe, and the tuning software, then see if it will run N/A maybe and work from there. If that is even possible, and then work from there.

ive told him to try that…well i told him to take the one pipe off b4 the maf and just stick a filter on the maf section of pipe

yeah, you are blow through, right? I’d do that.

yeah i can try that, but im afraid of overspooling the turbo if i do that. i dont know if it could be wires, they are 1.5yr old 8mm high performance wires, but ill get a cheapo OEM pair to try them out.

just dont go nuts on it and you should be OK.

well the problem with that is having to swap the stock injectors back in and such to return to stock tune. i guess i can try that tomarrow after nitroinsane takes me for my tires. if anyone wants to help out tomarrow ill be working on it like all day after 12noon.

^well nick, i was talking to nick and we were disscussing us looking at it and tryin some shit out while you take care of your shit later…and it will give you a break from it too…im also game for tomarrow

what tuning software are you using?

Superchips Advantage

hmmm… just a guess, but maybe thats part of the issue?

out of curiosity, why did you go with superchips over SCT? I’d, honestly, call SCT and tell them your problem and ask to see what they think (if the SCT software would help/fix your issue).

their, IMHO, the best people to deal with when it comes to Fords.

Is your setup a one of a kind? I was gonna say to ask some fellow boosted focus guys and see what they say… someones had to have been thru this before.

good luck man