I dont know exactly what the problem is…Let me explain, so the car starts up fine, but then the idle starts goin a little bit crazy…the tach starts bouncing between 1.5 and just about 0, and every now and then if i come to a complete stop it will just stall out…Now this just started to happen, im thinking its because the gas is like just over a month old in there and it was sitting out in the heat over july because i didnt have insurance for that time…anyone have any input on this??
I dont think 1 mth old gas would do it.
Check for a vaccum leak, thats usually always the problem with idle…
What engine do you have? And do you have any other info? It would help to diagnose.
here we go with this crap again!!
it happens to all 240s eventually
mine was initially a vacum leak. check your ECU for codes as well that will help. MAF can cause this too. Did you recently install a cold air intake??
Sometimes changing the fuel filter helps.
Theres a bilion things it could be. Chances are youll notice a hesitation around 3000 revs as well at some point
In response to you mikeness, i still have the KA in there and in response to Twitchy, i infact did recently put an Apex-i intake in there…But not very recent, it was about at the beginning of spring and it was running just fine up until now…Havent checked out the vacuum pressure which definately shoulda been the first thing i checked out :?.. Hmmmm im just hoping it wont turn out to be something too serious, im sure it wont though
Hi Adam,
Well first, for next time post this in Tech so your post won’t get locked for being in the wrong section. No worries though as I said just keep it in mind for next time. 
Now for your idle problem for sure first check your entire air intake from the MAF back to the throttle body. It MUST be air tight or you will have this problem. Next check for vacumm leaks and the hose from under the throttle body to your intake is not lose either. That one hose has to be air tight as well.
Then check the MAF connection and then your MAF itself that it’s not faulty. Now after all that you can move on to your spark plugs, coil, wires, and fuel system. I don’t think it should be any of those but hey, when your trouble shooting you have to try and rule out all the possibilities.
So good luck with it and keep us posted if you fix it or not.
Have a good one.
Easy 8)
Hey thanks for the input Sidewaze and i will definately keep that in mind sorry guys lol! Well my next day off is Wednsday and right now the car is in the shop getting a new clutch installed( would have done myself but i realllly dont have the time…stupid work) So once wednsday hits ill jack the car up and take a look…Thanks for all the input guys!
also, check to see if you are consuming coolent.
this sounds very close to the problems that i had, but mine also had a lack of power. ( automatic though )
My idle was bouncing from 500 - 1500 RPM sometime ago, I knew something was wrong.
Strangely, it ended up being the coolant temperature sensor…after a LOT of diagnosis.
Just a thought…good luck.
Hey all just wanted to let you know it turned out being vacuum leaks, i checked the plugs and 2 of them were pretty loose, buuuut that solved the problem! so now the car is running like a beauty again! Just got it back from getting a new clutch as well so im very happy! And now to put the N1 on as well as get some new seats and paintjob(already have the paint :D)
sorry to highjack but…
DarkForceJackal, did you notice any power gains after replacing your coolant temperature sensor? did the car feel stronger? or feel more responsive?
Nothing whatsoever, it just ran again. 
Nothing whatsoever, it just ran again. :)[/quote]
cool,
i only asked because i read an article on a project 240 car, where they were only getting 110rwhp and 118rw torque on a stock KA24DE with 200k+ miles and found it strange. They plugged a computer into it and found that the coolant temp sensor was messed so they replaced it, did a full collant flush and after a few days of driving around, they put it back on the dyno and got 120rwhp and 132rw torque.