Hey guys, I think my ignitor is fried as my car won’t start… uggg… Anyone in the oakville area willing to let me pop it into there SR to confirm my suspisions?
I’ve got a CA up here in milton you could try it with.
I’m pretty sure it’s “compatible”.
Can you please explain to us what happens step by step when you try to start it? it might not be the ignitor at all.
compatible yes/no. the plugs and wire colours are different, so its not a direct interchange, it needs to be wired into the harness in place of the SR ignitor.
trust me, I’m running a CA ign. on my SR
compatible yes/no. the plugs and wire colours are different, so its not a direct interchange, it needs to be wired into the harness in place of the SR ignitor.
trust me, I’m running a CA ign. on my SR[/quote]
Good to know!
Thanks
Right now… it turns over great, the injectors work fine there clicking away and spitting fuel into the engine. No spark. I have good coils I checked them all with a ohm meter by the FSM I have 12 volts at them as well as a solid ground. The grounds have all been cleaned and reconnected with die electric grease. I get 6ohm
s resistance between the negative battery terminal and any ground on the car. I have 12v between the positive battery termnial and any ground on the car (body, chassis, harness grounds on ignitor, coils, cas, ect) I have a good ground and 12v wire going into the ignitor(red with blue strip I think???) I have 12v coming out of the ignitor when the key is in the ON position and 12v to the signal wire of the coil. No spark… brand new plugs. I have grounded out each coil… no spark. I checked the ignitor via the FSM and it fails the continuity test. So I think its the ignitor? But I am very open to any other suggestions. Oh and the CAS has a good ground and 12v line and when you turn the cas by hand I get between .1 and 5v from the signal wires… and I re-timed the engine. 2nd mark from the left on the crank pully both silver links lined up on cam’s (about 10 oclock and 12 oclock respectivly on the cam key ways) and the cas is timed with the second hole ( one that is supposed to have yellow paint but usually wears off)
so I think I covered everything… but like I same I am VERY open to suggestions.
did this run fine before or is this a swap in progress.
It reminds me of a problem I had when I did my swap and we didn’t bypass the Auto (shift-lock unit) as it was previously auto converted to manual, sound familiar?
could you explain this ignitor test from the FSM, I have yet to download/print the SR engine section to update my hardcopy FSM, and am interested, cause there have been time I swear its my ignitor but its not.
Could also be the ECU.
When i first swapped over, i was getting everything but spark in 2nd, 3rd and 4th cylinders, turned out to be a problem with the ECU.
This is a swap in progress. I have yet to get the engine to start. I know its not the ECU because I tried the ECU in varun’s car and it fired right up. It’s a 5spd car always has been and the KA ran perfect before I took it out. What kill switches does the 240 have that would make it not spark?
The FSM has about 5 different ignitor tests. It fails all of them. Its basically testing the conectivity end to end. excluding the ground pin. If anyone wants to come by tonight and have a look your welcome to it. I’m in oakville. I don’t get spark on ANY coils.