Remember, there’s half a million other hoses feeding into the intake pipe though!
Study the whole thing and plan before ripping it apart, it will be easier in the end. That’s why I left my heat-shielded cone where the stock airbox was. Easiest setup for the cost/work/gain IMO. But hey, do whatever makes ya happy man!
Okay, well I finally have a digital camera now, so as soon as I get some batteries (yea… damn thing ate them in a half an hour or so) I’m gonna take some shots of the engine bay then circle what I plan to remove and what I plan to keep. I figured most of the work was done for me, since it already is a cone filter instead of the stock airbox, and all I need to do is relocate it, but I could be wrong.
i left the stock pipin to the MAF sensor, bought an adapter ($25) and some PVC piping ($5) one 90 degree elbow ($2), and made an extension that send the heat shielded cone filter ($30) right into the fog light mould in the front bumper. obviously, i don’t have fog lights, and i grinded out the engine bay a bit to get the filter to fit. its only in half way, not the whole way, to prevent waterboggin the motor.
works good for me, car revs smoother and higher, quicker. no complaints, only cost me $60.
Very nice! I’m guessing I could work out a similar system if I replace my DTRLs with the JDM grilles. That way I’ll have cooler air, and be JDM tyte… yo
go to pacific mall and buy a cone filter for $29. when it gets dirty, toss it in the trash and buy another one for $29. i change mine every 6 months, but since i am not driving my ride this winter, it may be once a year depending on how much use.
rip out your intake box and resonator box, and carefully map out where u are gonna put your intake, and make sure its in a spot where it can’t get totally submerged in water. its also nice if there is a direct path for air to get into the filter, instead of having a pipe lead the air to the filter.
if u are gonna make custom piping, u probably don’t need the MAF adapter. there is this stuff called magic tape which is supposed to withold pressure up to 2000 p.s.i. - i used that to seal the gap on the maf sensor and PVC piping. oh, i used 3" PVC.
Eeee… are you serious??? I thought it was supposed to be white??? Maan… Glad I found a deal on an SR, guess I will go that route after all.
Grey Gandalf - Sounds pretty good. What places in my car could get totally submerged in water? I thought it could only splash some on the cone if I drive through a puddle and that’s it. If I put it where the grille is on the USDM S13, could it get flooded there?
Wow, that’s a gorgeous engine bay.
How much cold air can it get there though? Have you thought about running the pop-up headlight cover that has an air intake on it? Would that help out much with getting cold air in there, or is it more of a style thing?
And when your cone gets dirty, does it come with a filter cleaning kit, (or if not, can you buy one?) or do you have to replace the cone itself?
Sorry about all the questions, but I’m very curious to know as it is very likely that I’ll be doing the swap this summer.
partial progress shot … still needs cheese and finish work, but it’s cold and I’m perenially lazy.
but yeah, off my 12,
the headlights are the same S12 to S13
although on my car I went to fixed headlights, even with the flip ups in place, you can still get air in. Lemme see if I have anymore useful(less) pics
I’m going completely by memory, but IIRC the 240 has the same routing for the wiring. See the hole in the rad support? You can enlarge that with a hole saw to feed the filter, then you just have to finish creating the pathway.
It’s hella cool to hear intake noise through a scoop
DTS, that is a nice system u got there. my buddy has a IC style intake on his teg, and really liked it. did u notice a difference?
like i said, my filter is in my bumper, almost like DTS’s location, but i have an s14. going into deep puddles, the filter could get totally submerged. i wish i had a digi cam, would make alot more sense.
but to answer your question, if your filter is sticking out where your grille goes, its unlikely that it would be submerged by water, unless u drive into a lake (then u got bigger issues than a waterlogged motor).
remember, u want to locate the filter AWAY from warm air coming from the engine bay, to get the most out of it. the best way to do that IMO is what the guys mentioned before, buying/making a shield thatblocks out the warm air from the engine and isolates the cone filter, or position the filter where a straight, direct path of fresh air will go directly into the filter.
LOL, i din’t scroll all the way to the right on my screen, i thought u had a IC lookalike intake!!! LOL
i see your intake now, its kinda tight in there to relocate it somewhere cooler, maybe remove your left light assembly or grind out the chassis a little. I’d liek to see someone get a fender flare and a fender scoop or something, and relocate the intake there. that would be sweet IMO, since the engine bay is alot more crowded with a turbo setup. NICE setup btw!!!
This is the headlight intake thing I was talking about.
I was wondering how effective it would be in getting air to your intake if you had a similar setup to DTS. It wouldn’t work when the light is up, but when it’s down, or if you have sleepy eyes, I’d figure it’d be decent. The one thing I’m not sure of, is whether it will provide enough air for the intake if I end up doing a heatshield around the intake. If it’s not enough all by itself, could always route more air from the bumper, but I just wanted to know if it’s worthwhile.