Is 3000km too early for a first oil change??

I just bought a Nissan 350z 2007 and was told by nissan that my first oil change through them would be at 6000km–ISN’T THAT TOO MUCH???

the car currently has 3200km, would it be good to go now, prior to waiting till 6000km–someone told me that it is a good idea to do an oil change to a new car in its first 3000km

THoughts?

oil change = 25$ …doin’ it after 3000km can’t be wrong…
i do it on my car every 4000-5000km…

can’t remember where i heard this from, but i think its a good idea.

even the first oil change at 1000 is not a problem, because that is the break in period. when parts were down, you don’t want it floating around in the oil.

6000 is way too much. the oil is almost starting to sludge at that point, depending on car though.

hope this helps. btw i do my oil change every month.

there may be some sort of break in period. if there’s synthetic in there, it should be alright. if not, 6000km is kinda sketch… call the dealership and see what they say. and just keep an eye on the oil colour and level.

during break in change your oil as much as possible after the first 2000kms.

then every 3-5 thou after that until 15 thousand.
then synth or whatever you like…cause its done breaking in.

there is no such thing as machined so good it doesn’t need to break in.
PERIOD…

these hillbilly’s that break in an engine like they stole it are just a gravy train to mechanics.

yes its tight but not finished seating
so you will get excesive wear for the first 12-15k kms.
it takes 200kms for the cam bearings in MOST cars to finish seating
same with the main bearings…

yes High RPM are not great but not bad either…
its thbe “get in HOSS we gotta git em” attitude that is a bad idea.

start the car wait 1.5 minutes
then go…BUT ACCELERATE SLOWELY!!!
its the stomping that kills.

drive like grandma for about 7k’s then more like grandpa then dad then 20 yr old when you reach the 12k~ish range.

never drive a fresh motor like a DRAG STAR…unless you got the million dollar budget too

First off, congrats and great choice.:R :slight_smile:

IMO, you should change the oil now, then again at 6000km. After that you may want to change it out every 5000km
At this point you may want to consider switching to a full synthetic, like Motul 8100.

Break In Period:
If you are unsure about break in methods then I suggest following the guidelines from your users manual.
But I am a firm believer in varying engine rpm throughout the power band without redlining for the first 6000km.

Good luck & Great choice… Hope to see you out at the local meets.

Also check out My350z.com and pop into our Canada/East/Regional forum, we have a meet/cruise scheduled with the G guys for next weekend.

Cheers,

Change your oil at the times suggested by Nissan. 80% of the “break-in” in done long before you get your car, also Nissan uses a special blend of oil that is designed for the first 6000km. Get about 10-14K on the car then switch over to Mobil 1. Then enjoy your 350’s VQ for years to come.

there is NO WAAAAY… ANY manufacturer runs all their engines in the manufacturing environment on a load of any kind for more than 10 minutes to 1 hr.

let alone the minimum 10 hrs that it would properly take.

lets not kid ourselves as to how much that would actually cost.

there will never be an engine manufactured that
will not need a break in period.

as simply put even if you could machine it perfectly to within 0.0001
the “seating” forces of a rotating mass at these automotive kind of rpm’s
are so strong that the scoaring would still take affect.

P.S.
an engine machined to be accurate to itself at those accuracy’s would be arround 1 million dollars these days.
as this is 10 times more accurate than todays standards and also…
this would need to be a matched and blueprinted engine…
this means that all parts are machined to go in 1 engine not any engine.

this was first attempted by honda with the SPOON series of engines.
and was apparently like a $15,000 option…
^^is this "spoon $ amount correct?..i dunno for sure

when i worked at ajax engines, to break them in, we would put the fresh built engines on a jig that spun them. they had oil pressure, but there was no combustion going on, the engine was spun by an electric motor. im not too sure how long for…

but if the engine manufacturer could do that, then yeah, the engine would be almost broken in by the time the customer recieves it.

you guys did more than most.
some only do it ot check cylinder pressure.

there is a VERY slim chance you actually did it for about 10hrs for every engine.

engine manufacturers build tens or hundreds of thousands of engines a year.
this works into the millions and billions of hours of run time.

this as we can see will never happen.
just think of the storage and the lead time before they can be installed in the #'s needed for a production cycle.

this is why the parts are spec’d by “knowlegable people”
and as we can see by the 2.5Q engine for the altima’s and the sentra specv’s etc

oil consumtion woul’d have been caught very early and fixed before the engines made it to the assembly floor. let alone cars making it to the dealer.

engines are made and remade to very close tolerances these days as I am sure you know…BUT

there will never be a way to build an engine close enough that it is even “almost” or “mostly” broken in.

but they are made well enough to NOT have an opportunity at Major failure.
or damage in their lifetime.

Merceded and Rolls royce and Ferrari and Porsche and the like are the only manufacturers using the U.O.O system of manufature.
where
when the crank (cam etc) is size checked after machining.
it is then sent to crack check.
if it is under sized its sprayed with RED crack check
if it is over it is sprayed with blue
if it is dead on it is sprayed with green or another colour…this is only an example.

either way after crack check it goes into a bin that holds ONLY that colour.

then as the engine comes down the line…the bearings or other mating surfaces have been put through the same process just colour inverted.
(RED means oversize)

so then the dopes on the line just match the blue to blue and red to red etc.

this triples the price of the motor but massively increases reliability and or power capacity.

Ferrari doesn’t make a cam, find it on the small side of spec and just put it in the next motor…they wait for an oversized bearing or undersize hole.

I know these terms are usually kept for OUT of spec parts.
but when used in the UOO process garbage parts are called garbage or “rework” and not used until reworked or recycled.

we get parts that were only “within spec” and so some of us got the big cam in the little hole or the little cam in the big hole…this is why there are such performance and reliability differences between 2 350z’s #199999 and #200000.

ford GM Chrysler hyundai etc etc. allow a larger variance. thats why they are all POS’s.

UOO is a part of blueprinting but not all of it.
it is also often called “machine matched”.

this is the difference between them and US
and why north amerca cant make a toaster that doesn’t leak oil.

its called pride in workmanship…and guys in design school who are there for the paycheck they heard automotive designers can get…not because they care about cars.

i’v met a few who couldn’t even change the brakes on something they didn’t design…let alone be willing to get dirty in the process.

its like having a little 100lb woman as a fire fighter.
can she lift my 240lb ass?..no
should she run into the fire?..no
but I’m sure she can do a-lot of other things.

these guys should’nt design toilet paper cause they don’t give a shit about our money / reputation or workethic going down the tubes.

really who can care about what they build when they see that its a POS from day 1, Sheet 1

^your taking this off topic. Nothing you have said has any real relevance to the VQ35HR.

To the OP,
IMO, you should follow the nissan guidelines so that you are in good standing with your dealer/Nissan.ca.
No need to take the chance on voiding your warranty, as your Z is brand new.

Good luck and Speed Safely!:R

post #10 specifically?..yes… you are right.
the rest is realevent to ALL engines.

go with factory for the first spec’d change
then go with better than regular service intervals…dont forget manufacturers considder anything similar to what we considder normal driving, as Extreme.
for has denied warrantee to some people for not being able to prove 3000k oil changes on high mileage/year vehicles.
why because some service mgr’s are A** holes and think they’ll get a gold star for this.
Ford would give them a gold star and love 10 customers in the process.
I have personally seen this while working for ford in 2000 and 1999.