As soon as I clutch in to start braking or just clutch in when car is rolling, the rpms drop way past idle and car dies and shutters back to life as the car is still rolling. Sometimes it actually stalls and i gotta restart. The idle also drops to like 500-600 rpms once the car has been driving around, while with the car parked the idle is usually 750-800 rpms.
I’ve checked to see if everything is hooked up, as according to the fsm, I have all the vacuum lines hooked up. The only thing I’ve noticed is the tps sensor is missing one screw on the top. The tps doesn’t move however, so it can’t be affected the idle.
IACV - Idle Air Control Valve. Tiny little valve on the back of your intake manifold that regulates the air going into your intake when the throttle is closed. Had the exact same problem over the summer, after removing/testing/cleaning the valve it runs fine. Usually the valve is just plugged with carbon buildup due to age but it’s also possible that the solenoid itself is acting up (not opening, opening too little) in which case you’ll have to replace the unit. There’s a link in the Tutorials list in the FAQ with more information.
Also if you have ABS it’s a right cunt to remove, and make sure the gasket is still good when you reinstall or else it’ll create a huge vacuum leak that makes your car do funny things.
Also try cleaning your throttle/MAF, that can also cause issues.
sprayed a shit load of carb cleaner into it. Didn’t improve anything.
Pulled my plugs, they were black as shit. So i pretty much did a full tune up of igniton system. Replaced a thermostat also. And now every single time on the road, when i clutch in from gear to brake or just coast the car will stall and then shudder back to life, and on rare occasion actually die.
So with that said …
Is there a way to test my iacv valve to see if it is even the problem. I noticed while snooping around engine bay, the egr tube from header is like cut off and squeezed shut, no idea how its looks on the egr side.
The link I posted to Nicoclub covers the testing of the IACV. Basically there’s two solenoids, one for the AAC (I’m not too sure what it does) and the smaller IACV valve. If you’ve tested the wiring and continuity going to the IACV plug then you can check the solenoid by putting 12V power to it and seeing if it activates.
Chances are if you just pull it off and clean it it will most likely fix the problem. Also the FSM has much more detailed information for testing the electrical unit (resistances etc)
