My wiper arm never flew up in excess of 160 :gotme:
There is no code for bad compression if it was tested properly…there is nothing I can think of ECU related that would give bad compression #'s
I’m not telling him to look for a compression code, but to check to see if he is in saftey boost before he assumes that it’s his compression that is making him slow.
Ya the runs were REALLY close, we would pull no more than half a car on each other and over a hundred is where I would get the half. But his car should definately pull me quite bit. If I was in your position I would either off the car and get something else, but if you really like it might as well spend the cash and get it going right, regardless of what it costs.
yea somethings gotta be wrong/poorly functioning on your car if your pullin even with a sc cobalt. I ran dead even with a sc cobalt in my jetta over the summer…
yes josh the spring is still on the wiper…
and yes josh i checked for codes not too long ago, and got a 55 :tup: so safety boost is not my problem, and i know what safety boost feels and looks like because i have experienced it first hand and already fixed that…
keep the suggestions coming though…if i can avoid tearing out and tearing apart my engine again, i’m all for it…but i dont think i have a choice…and even if my compression numbers at 125 or so are still “good enough” i dont want 'em…i want full compression, not good enough compression
So you put down 190whp when you were NOT in saftey boost? Or am I confused… ?
Turn up the boost and get a good dyno tune…if the motor blows than you have a reason to pull it out…what condition are your turbos in…any leaks in your IC piping…hows ur vacuum???
vacuum is fine…idle is great, no stalling, etc…
i was not in the car for the dyno…but according to how mike described how the boost barely krept up to 7psi or so, then power let off at about 5500rpm it sounded and looked a lot like eric’s dyno when he was in safety boost…but when i got in it to drive home, it boosted fine…
it no longer loses power at 5500 rpm due to the o2 sensor no longer reading incorrect data, because there are no mo exhaust leaks…
it boosts fine josh…you’re awake…i can swing by now and show you lol…
I would say nice kill but then I read that it was N/A…
Fix your car, or sell it and buy a TT, I think all the money/time/headache invested is not worth the couple hundred bucks a year it is less on your insurance…
Howie, do you want to cut this tread out and keep the kills story here but move the “whats wrong with your car” dicussion to GenAuto?
This is what doesn’t make sense to me. The only exhaust leak that would effect o2 readings would be a leak between the exhaust housing of the turbo and the downpipe, since both o2 sensors are located on the downpipes.
when i drove behind u i noticed your wiper isnt even on straight…if it was maybe it wouldnt fly off
look where his is…allll the way to the left and STRAIGHT…yours is in the middle of your rear window
:word:
Your wiper should be just like mine when not in use.
This thread is a clusterfuck of things, I’ll leave it in kills.
hey you took your heads off right??? beacause you did head gaskets if i recall…did you deck your heads at all? they could have been warped…just something else to look into beacause of low compression numbers…
no i did not take my heads off…i did not change the head gaskets…which is another reason why i suspect something along those lines to be my problem…
here’s the link to the write up where i found the info on the car running rich due to exhaust leaks…but in re-reading it, i may have been mistaken…it’s talking about the possibility of tuning the car too rich on the dyno if you have an exhaust leak…my bad
also, my 125psi compression really isn’t that bad according to this write up…it’s not good, and it’s certainly not as good as i want it to be…but it DOES meet requirements (on 5 out of 6 cylinders…one is about 7psi below minimum accepted psi);
honestly i would take off the heads get them cleaned and decked and put some nice headgaskets in there…yeah you dont want to do this but in my opion it would be worth it to know that your heads are good and you have a decent brande new headgasket…
Yeah Ash is talking about leaks while on a Dyno, where the readings are taken after the exhaust.
Exhaust leaks are not you problem.
i’ll be going this week to have my gf’s dad do a compression test at his shop because obviously he’s more credible than i am in doing one…and just for the hell of it we’re still gonna fax it over to Z1…i’ve got nothing to lose in still getting on them about the compression numbers i got…
a leakdown test will also be done, we will check for any and all vacuum/boost leaks…but i can already tell you that we will not find problems concerning vacuum…
the car is old, so is the engine apparently, and the compression is low…if the Z32 makes 300hp at 150 to 170psi compression…then obviously i’m not going to make near that much power with my numbers being in the low 120’s…
i was anticipating doing a rebuild, and even if i could get by without one…i dont want to…i want the piece of mind in knowing for a fact that i do have good new gaskets, that the valveguides aren’t fucked up, and that the valvelifters aren’t trashed, and that the piston rings are also not too trashed…i’ll drive a lot more confidently knowing all that is up to and well beyond recommended spec…
THEN if i still have power problems…i will cry…
yes i agree with GSX and Josh. As i told you b4 you did the swap . Replace the head gaskets and get the heads checked out. Hell even have them ported out get some extra hp. I know some one who is great at doing head work. A little on the pricey side but fair. PM me if you want his name.