Knewman's Knuckle


#161

A+ work itt.


#162

In this episode of make-a-nut, we’re going to make another nut! This time for the stem.

First, make a drawing. The prime time to do this is when your GF wants you to do something.

Start with the same piece of 1144 from last time. Drill some pilot marks.

Then drill them deeper. Remember to go slow, you’re drilling these little holes now so that in case you snap the bit off in there, you won’t try and angrily flip over the bridgeport. It sure seems like a lot of material.

Then clean off the scraps. Looks pretty goood.

Next, drill a hole. Make sure you drill it deep enough to tap it before you cut it off. Maybe go a little extra, because maybe those full threads on the tap aren’t ass full as you think and MAYBE later when the nut is cut off you’re going to have to find a way to hold it without fucking it all up.

Next, drill a bigger hole. Just make sure it’s about .040 smaller than the size you’re going to need. Don’t have a giant drill bit? Well maybe your next door neighbor used to be a diesel mechanic. Go ask him. No? Then you remember you used to beat your son with a sock full of drill bits. Yep, there’s one in there, and it’s perfect. Clean off the blood and go to town. You’re probably going to want to drill this under 200rpm.

Break out the boring bar and machine the ID to the print. At this point, don’t take the time to realize that the drill size for a 1-24 tap is .955 and not .965. Also, be sure to accidentally make the hole an extra .010 big because you didn’t zero your calipers out properly.

Next we are going to put a little step in there to be used later.

Now use a 1/2 endmill and make the first feature.

And now use the same tool to rough in the flats. At this point your hands will start to hurt and you’ll begin getting hungry. Consider giving up on motorcycles altogether and becoming a chef, however, once you have the last cut done, feel glad that your drill holes you added for reliefs all appear straight and correctly placed.

Grab a smaller endmill and machine to size.

Grab a socket and cross your fingers that this will work, because you’ve got like 4 hours invested in this damn thing and you’ve never made a 12 point nut before. Hey, it fits!

Next, add some chamfers because you’re cool. Chamfers are cool, too.

Then add a bunch of crap to the bottom that you’re theoretically going to use as a nut locking safety device.

Now it’s time to tap. First, worry that the tap is going in a little too easy. Next, curse yourself for not making the whole deep enough to get full thread engagement. Finish tapping and look at the threads. Hmm, they don’t look right. Go get your calipers. Go get a stock stem nut. Realize there is a .020 difference in thread minor diameters. Think long and hard again about giving up on motorcycles forever. Go on the internet. Check several sources about correct thread drill diameter. Curse. Look at a couple butts on the web. Start the whole project again. This time it only takes about 2.5 hours to get back to this stage. This time make sure you use an inside mic on the thread ID hole. This time drill the hole deep enough.

That looks pretty good, EASY!

Now VERY SLOWLY drill a .083 hole in each little tower.

Now tap those tiny little holes to 4-40 for a set screw. Consider setting up a noose on the overhead crane in the event you snap the tap off. Break your chip every 1/6 of a turn (vs the usual 1/2 turn). Top secret message: The hen is in the nest. Sweat runs in your eyes as you tap your part at a snails pace. The tap does not break and your fancy new nut is almost complete.

Spend some undocumented time making a filler piece with your initials on it out of 316SS

Question whether or not you’re a narcissist.

You decide you’re not, so make this rippled finisher part instead. Realize that you’ve spent 13 hours making a nut for your motorcycle that most people will probably thing you bought. You’re tired and hungry. Go to the supermarket and buy a bag of spicy nacho kale chips and soy egg nog because you deliriously think it will be a good combo, and because you’re a vegan and clearly must have judgement issues anyway. Drink almost the entire 'nog on the way home from the shop and go to bed without taking a shower. That’s how you make a nut!


#163

yas!


#164

Jesus. That post deserves it’s own thread!


#165

lol.

great work as per usual


#166

It’s nice to see a little humor made it’s way into that last post. It’s also nice to know there’s plenty of cursing involved. I curse a LOT when I’m trying not to ruin nice pieces of metal.


#167

Most important part of this entire thread…BUTTS!

:lol:

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#168

Dude, my sister was in Africa for 3 years and told me some of the stuff she ate. I can say hands down what you VOLUNTARILY purchased for consumption is the worst combination I have ever heard in my 37 years on this planet.


#169

Great write up!


#170

I’ve always thought of veganism as more of an eating disorder than a judgement issue… but that’s coming from a binge eating overweight middle aged man with a likely alcohol addiction, so what do I know?

I’m really enjoying these write ups!


#171

Very entertaining read :tup:


#172

LOL


#173

It only scratches the surface of questionable food choices I’ve made.

Though I have a distinct memory of eating broken up raw spaghetti noodles in pizza sauce with 50% Parmesan cheese.


#174

That’s fine Parisian cuisine in comparison to egg nog and nacho kale chips.


#175

I thought vegans don’t do dairy at all?

edit: re-read soy egg nog … and i assume the parmesan cheese was pre-vegan


#176

correct on both accounts


#177

Fantastic work!!!


#178

Wow. Just wow.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


#179

*hole


#180

So, I spent about 50 hours making a set of handlebars, and they’re not even done yet. I didn’t document a lot of the fab work, because the task was so daunting. It doesn’t even look like something that would take as long as it did, but manual machining and manual polishing really eats up a lot of time.

The first step was to make these parts. They look simple, and on a CNC they would be. Doing it on manual equipment really presented all sorts of challenges.

The right hand side one is even drilled for throttle cable pass through.

Next, I needed a 1.25” bend CLR on some 1” round. I don’t have a die for my bender that small, and I doubt anyone does… Never fear:

That’ll work. Took a few tries which was about the end of the service life for the die.

So now I am just going to jump to the complete product but there is a TON that I am skipping. The bars are actually made from 13 different pieces. There is a riser cap, upper tube, middle tube and lower solid round section. The solid round section is profiled manually and then headlight mounting bracket bosses were added. They also have a “backup ring” that takes some of the suspension load off the stem nut. The risers actually pass through the top tree and bolt to the bottom tree. There is a set screw behind the upper girder links that keeps the bars from rattling around in the top tree.

The upper portion of the bars I am not decided on yet. It’s going to be a function of tank fitment I think, but fortunately, I can almost do that at the very end of the project, allowing me to play with various ideas. So here are some pictures that I don’t really feel does the project justice, but it will get the idea across.
Riser backup ring:

Front view:

Top view:

Details:

Side view:

Another option in case I decide to run lower bars:

The profiled riser support uprights, milled and tapped for headlight mounts:

Also got some parts back from heat treat. The nuts are 1144 and HT to 54HRC, the other parts are 4140 and HT to 51HRC.