That Dave dude that worked at Scruggs at one point? That thing fucking hauls
Decided that I didn’t feel like spending $250 on quarter windows, so I painted the gold inside of there black just to break up the body color monotony. Turned out pretty okay, though. Forgot to get a finished picture. Maybe tomorrow.
I also decided to get creative with the rails. Totally 80s paint scheme for a totally 80s car.
…and three coats of clear later:
Prepped the block today too. Ready for studs tomorrow.
Assuming my studs actually show up tomorrow, motor goes back together. Pics to follow.
This car totally rocks. My in laws live in Eden, FIL has a red vette and does side work as a constable (typically in traffic court).
Finished those rails and promptly realized I welded the one together backwards. Fuck. How did that happen? Decided I just had to flip them and put the regulator on the rear rail. Whatever. I’m pretty happy with them.
…and here’s the quarter/sail window area I painted.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
Still no studs. Tracking number said they should have been delivered today, but they’re stuck in Rochester? Better be tomorrow. I did, however, get my China rip-off Go-Pros. They were $20 apiece and include the entire accessory kit. Technically $30 apiece if you count the $10 32GB SD card. They do 1080p30 and 720p60 so they should slow down in Premiere Pro pretty well if I want to do Slow-Mo. I’ll let you know how they do. The same company makes a little guy like the GoPro Hero Session that can do 1080p60 and 720p120. They’re about $100 apiece. Maybe I’ll upgrade in a bit, if I like these ones.
On 75 in the house with cedar shake shingles?
6 year olds in China assembling your cameras thank you.
They still do that over in China? I just assumed everything was built by robots by now. If it makes you feel any better, they’re not great. They’re actually a rip-off of a rip-off. Hah. They’ll be fine to play with until I can get something better. Learn to use Adobe Premiere, etc.
Studs left Rochester an hour ago. They should get delivered tomorrow. Here’s to hoping.
So, the studs showed up today.
They’re pretty meaty.
Anyway, I got to drilling:
…and tapping:
Took about two hours to do the first bank, and only one to do the second:
Shavings from the first bank:
And all of them installed. Just screaming for boost…
…but alas, this car fucking hates me. So, this happened on literally the last stud to torque, on the third and final pass.
Either the stud was bad or there was some lube or crud on there that I didn’t know about. Torque wrench wasn’t even close to clicking. SNAP. Fuck. Really wanted to drive it this weekend.
FUCK! So now what? Easy out it or tap with a chisel?
Grabbed it with some Vise Grips on the shank after I pulled the head back off. Came right out. Still, does that mean I’ve got to wait another three weeks for a replacement? I really hope not…
3 months if you order from the same guy.
Don’t have an option. He’s got patents and shit. Plus this is all for a motor they haven’t made similarly in ten years or so. Nobody’s got any interest in it, really. 'Cept for goofballs like me. All I can do is throw money at him and hope he can overnight me an envelope. Time is ticking on my vacation here. Hah.
wow, that blows. did you clean out the threads? are these blind holes?
shitty that it happened but better for it to snap on your engine stand than after it’s running in the car.
Have @newman make you one, it’ll take less than three months.
Those are (should be) rolled threads, which I don’t really have the capability to make. 
I have heard that ARP will make hardware to your specifications, that isn’t listed in their catalogs, if you just give them a call and explain what you need.
They’re CNC machined from CroMo, hardened and then threads rolled on. I can’t roll threads either. I can’t even cut threads with my baby lathe. No change gears.
The torque specs are dry which is a bit strange. I know there is a significant difference between dry and lubed torque values, but I don’t know the coefficient of friction calculations for that or the values for moly lube, for example. Anyway, I have a feeling that there was some oil or coolant on the stud or inside of the nut that I missed. Could be that the wrench wasn’t seeing 75 pounds because of the lube, but was really exerting 150+ pounds. Maybe it was weak or something. Who knows; it popped. I’ll be much more vigilant about head/stud/nut cleanliness this go around. The guy actually responds really quickly to Facebook messages and completely ignores his e-mail which is strange, but whatever. He said he’d hook me up with a free replacement for the cost of shipping, so that’s nice. I just can’t stress enough how quickly I need it. We’ll see.
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Yea, they’re blind holes in the block. The new threads in the block were blown out with air, sprayed out with brake cleaner twice and then more air. I’m pretty confident they were clean. The studs went in fine, I’d say. Didn’t have to realign any of them. They were all perfectly straight.
End of story, I just fucked one up somehow. Oh well. New babies die every day. Just need to have him get me a replacement as quickly as he possibly can. Three shipping days left in my vacation.
Sounds to me like a bad stud but what do I know. heres to hoping he moves quick on one for you.
I can have these done, PM me the specs.
Oh, word? Alright. I’m going to run over to the shop in a bit anyway, so I’ll grab my calipers and I can get you some drawings in a couple of hours. There are four out of twenty that have ‘dowel pin’ shoulders machined into them that go into the top corners or each bank to help locate the heads. If I were going to do through the trouble, could I have you make me like four of each of two designs? They’re not drastically different. I’d just like to have spares lying around just in case. I’m paranoid.