Looking for someone who can time vanos

[CJRando]

@Boxersix

The head pressure tested 100% but I remember you said you reused the headgasket when you picked up that injector.

Have you had the cooling system pressure tested for leaks yet? that is the ONLY surefire way to diagnose a HG leak without just replacing the gasket.

Also have you had the system code read with a proper BMW tool yet? Clark has stated it before about basic read errors and he is 100% right.

FWIW, An exhaust system that went through an HG leak will contain copious amounts of coolant that can take quite a few hours to dissipate(white smoke), and the drastic drop in coolant level can be related to an vapor lock release in the system after the thermo opens. Not disputing your findings, just advising the common alternative cause to both.

How are you bleeding the coolant system on the car, because these things are notorious for getting and trapping air in the system. If you are not pressure bleeding the cooling system, the nose of the car really needs to be high, RPMS kept up around 1500-2000, and constantly monitor fluid levels in the reservoir as the temp rises. Get the nose of the up on jackstands is the preferred procedure(rear chocked and on ground)

What head stud torque procedure did you follow?(list your specs here) and you did use NEW headbolts right?? They are a one shot deal and must be replaced every time the head is removed or you will never get a proper seal. Proper sequence with lightly oiled bolt threads and washers is 30nm pre-torque through sequence, 90 degree yield through sequence, then another 90 degree yield through the sequence. After they go through that sequence, the bolts are stretched and cannot be reused again.

Can you pull the spark plugs out and take a clear picture of each(label each one to it’s mated cylinder)? Spark plugs speak mountains on basic internal diag on these terms.

I’d love to be able to pull this car in for you and just run the diags but I’m a bit tied up at the moment and won’t have any free time for a couple weeks to pull away for a day and check a few things out. If you can hold out for a couple weeks on this I can do all of the above.

I think the head is fine. I did reuse the head gasket, I’ve gotten away with it on other vehicles.

I haven’t had the cooling system tested.

The garage I took it to, to have the codes read had the tool. It looked like the board UPS drivers use, it plugged into the port in the engine bay. He wouldn’t tell me exactly what it said. I believe he wanted me to leave the car at his shop so he could do the repair. He just said it was related to the head/head gasket.

It did have a vapor lock because the heater would blow warm then cold air. I raised the overflow bottle about a foot above the engine to get the air out, it was on wheel ramps. I did not rev the engine to 1500-2000 rpms.

I used new headbolts which I lightly oiled. I did exactly as you stated in the older post. I also used the Bently manual for the proper order/tightening sequence.

I will take the plugs out tonight and get a photo of each one, probably within the next hour.

I’ve waited 3 months with this car so far. I’m willing to wait a little bit longer if you can look at it for me. You’ve been a great help in this learning process for me.