Unexpected stall: WTF is going on? *Update: Videos*

Here’s the order of things I did to get things started. Mind you car has
been running good in the last few weeks.:

  • Took out clutch fan

  • I had been experiencing buzzing in my stereo and I had four grounds on
    one source so I split them up: gauges and 5" tach ground wires are now
    on the 4-bolt shifter plate (the brown plate).

  • For shits and giggles, I poured maybe 2 or 3 table spoon of Lucas Oil
    Stabalizer in my oil (I’m currently running 15w40 - or is it 15w50 - Mobil 1)

Started her up and let it idle. Drove around block and came to a stop sign.

Outta nowhere, the car flat out dies; I was in neutral so I didn’t stall it.

Try to start her up and she’s struggling. Wait a few sec and try again, still
struggling so I give the gas pedal a few taps as I’m cranking.

Finally she starts up. Let it idle and open hood to see whats up. Bam she
dies again a few seconds later. :wtf:

I got her started again and drove towards home and again at a stop sign
she dies again.

Managed to start her up again and got home. Letting it idle and check all
my vacuum lines and plugs and nothing seems outta place.

While idling in my garage, I noticed a couple times it like ‘choked’ (idle
dropped below 500) but didn’t die out.

Almost sounds to me like a fuel related issue (fuel pump?). I see no
leaks on the ground so fuel’s not leaking.

I’m stumped. :?

Checked my battery voltate on idle and it was around 13.6V

While idling, I turned heater to full and turned stereo ON. A few sec later
she dies out.

Tried to crank her again and just keeps cranking but doesn’t turn over.

I had to have gas pedal floored while cranking and then it starts up.

WTF is it?

Flooding? Battery? Alternator? Fuel?

take that lucas shit out of your car

lucas is the devil

i added lucas atf additive to my 929 and it over swelled the seals of my perfectly good tranny that would of lasted the winter and killed it over night

FUCK YOU LUCAS I WILL KILL YOU IN YOUR SLEEP WITH A CHAINSAW SLUT

I have 50% Lucas, 50% 80w90 Castrol regular tranny oil; No problem so far. :dunno:

And like I said, I added like a few tbsp of Lucas. Not enough to do anything.

Hey man, sorry to hear about the problems. If it is dying out as soon as you turn stuff on, I would tend to think it is the alternator.

if you have the means, maybe take your battery to ct to have them load test it, sometimes it will hold a full charge, but under load it cannot. They check them for free, you can just drive it there and take it out in the lot…

Hope this helps

Theo

Check to see if the battery light comes on just before it dies, and if you rev it up it goes off? This would be alt. for sure.

Theo

Hey G.

Did you here the fuel pump turn on when you turn the key? Stupid question I know but if not, the pump is dead.

Also a clogged fuel filter or fuel system could do this too.

I would also double check your vacumm lines for any cracks or splits. As well, if your running a cold air intake, tighten the clamps and make sure the MAF clip is on properly.

Good luck man, I hope you figure out the problem and it’s cheap or costs nothing to fix.

Easy 8)

Problems like this suck to diagnose. Work backwords from what you’ve changed. Make sure all the grounds you did are good. If you took out the intake system, make sure it’s sealed etc.

Good luck…

The AIV was ditched some 2000KMs or so ago and I haven’t had any
problem like this.

Except this one time when at work, I turned the key and nothing (no click
or crank). But it eventually fired up.

My battery is in the trunk, and it’s run using a 4GA car audio cable. I’ve
had this since last year and no problems. :dunno:

I did not notice any warning lights come on the gauge cluster before it
died out so I dunno.

I had the stereo head unit, gauges, and tach/shift light all on one single
ground. I separated those and put the gauges and shiftlight grounds on
the shifter plate bolts.

I’ll replace the fuel filter tomorrow.

The fact that when it stalls, and then I try to crank it and keep on cranking
but it doesn’t turn over, leads me to believe lack of fuel being supplied.

Bruce: If the pump was dead, it wouldn’t start at all and stay idle for as
long as it does.

And then it only starts up after I hold the gas pedal down while cranking.

So it could be a dying fuel pump, alternator, or something else :dunno:

Danger. Unless this is normal.

This morning I attached a voltmeter to the battery and started to crank her up.

She started up fine and the voltage was somewhere in the 13.5V - 14V
and she dies unexpectedly.

As Im trying to crank her (and she isn’t turning over), I look at the volt
meter and it’s somewhre in the 10.5V - 11.5V as I’m cranking.

Few min later I see a bit of smoke from the engine bay as I’m
cranking. :noes:

Nothing heavy, just a few puffs near the air filter.

I take the TB hose out and I see smoke as I open the throttle.

I plug everything back in and crank again. Then I went back and
checked the TB hose and I see smoke coming out (not heavy but smoke
nonetheless).

Any idea?

  • Checked my sparkplugs, and they look good.

  • I disconnected the fuel pump hose (just above the fuel filter) and turned
    ignition to ON and fuel shot up so the fuel pump works, but I don’t know if
    there is adequate pressure there (don’t have a gauge to measure).

I wans’t quire sure how to measure TPS resistance; I followed the FSM but
I wasn’t able to get a reading (unless I missed something).

At this point, the car still has so much trouble just to turn over; it just
keeps cranking and cranking.

The only way to get it to turn over is to hold gas pedal down and then
crank. Once it’s running it seems to maintain idle (650) but eventualy
it will just choke up and die.

I’m stumped.

Its not your TPS or MAFS, MAFS will let you start up, and you can run without a TPS.

Have you checked codes from your ECU?

Wouldn’t know how to do that.

My take is, any sensor that’s bad, would at least cause the engine to start
but not remain running for long.

I really need a fuel pressure gauge to make sure my FP is supllying
adequate fuel presure.

Anyone got one handy? :dunno:

My only suguestion to you is park it in the forest along side the other pieces of wood where it belongs…

Honestly dude I’m stumped… Let me think about it tonight and I’ll get back to you, just remind me.

OK I have a few more questions. What does the exhaust look like when you are cranking it or when it runs for a little while?

What grounds did you move?

Check your MAF it could cause this prob. Nissan service bulliton states a problem with MAF harnesses in the 240’s. Their salution was a new harness that would have been installed at a dealer. If this was done prior to you buying the car then the maf wire could have a external ground.

Also check your temp sensor. If it is not hooked up prop or giving you a faulse reading. A ETS that is not hooked up will give you aredaing of -40 which will tell the comp to dump a crap load of fuel (if idle injector pulse widthis 2ms with a fully warmed engine it could be 8ms with a -40 reading from the ETS.

Does it die when you give it throttle?
If it does iw ould look for leaks in the fuel line. A small pin hole that may be hard to trace will cause a drivability prob.

Iuno what else to tell you right now.

There are a few tests you can do but it would take me a while to explain and I am short on time right now… Sorry for any spelling mistakes …in a rush

http://240sx.org/faq/articles/ecm_codes_doch.htm

Good place to start, check out 240sx.org/faq

Ok, I had Nate come over and we did a few things to diagnosis to see what’s up.

Exhaust looks no different then before. I didn’t notice any unusual smoke
or anything.

Once we had it running and idling normally (650 as usual), we started to
disconnect some of the plugs/harnesses and see what we could notice.

Started with MAF first. Idle started to fluctuate but she kept running.

Next we disconnected TPS and as usual, idle become different but didn’t die out.

Disconnected spark plug wires one by one and idle changed, but didn’t die out.

Since I have no clutch fan there is no adequate cooling. We noticed that
while car was running at about 235F, it held idle and didn’t die out. We
turned it on and off a few times and it started up at all times.

I took it for a spin a few times to let it cool off and when I got back it was
about 170F. And a few min later it died out.

Tried cranking it and it started up but it had some crazy ass idle. Like
not smooth it was like choking on something.

When we gave it throttle it would smooth out and then idle fine and then
a few minutes later it would die out.

BTW, The grounds I moved were Autometer gauges and shift light. They
weren’t anything important to affect the car in anyway.

Check the ecu for codes… #1 best place to start.

Check the ecu for codes… #1 best place to start.

See Gonad, two votes for it, it only takes a minute and if there is something wrong with a sensor it will tell you.

Fair enough.

I’ll spend the day reading ECU codes.

Thanks,