The day? It only takes about 3 minutes to get the to ECU pull the codes and look them up.
Ok, first time I ran the diagnosis, I got CODE 11 (Crank angle sensor)
and CODE 12 (MAF)
I took MAF out and cleaned it up a bit (not much I could do). I didn’t
touch the CAS.
Ran the car a few times, reset the results a few times, and then ran the
diagnosis again.
But for some reason, all the times I tried to reset the MODE II results and
try reading them again, I kept getting CODE 55 (Everything good).
Car seems to crank and then fire up on every fire, although a few times
it doesn’t seem to crank up smoothly.
While idling, and when it dies, it just dies out flat out, as if the engine was
stalled in gear.
I’m stumped.
I’ve uploaded a couple videos (no sound sorry) that shows my idle on
starting and such.
Video #1 (2MB)
Upon starting you will notice a few seconds later, the engine ‘chokes’ and
the RPM dips below 500rpm or so but continues to stay on.
http://240sx.cubicdesign.com/videos/2005/idle/idle1.avi
Video #2 (2MB)
This video shows how quickly the engine dies out. Whiel idling, it will
just flat out die out.
wow, thats hardcore…
It idles decently fine for the most part then just slams it self into the ground…
KA’s are junk, SR Swap?
haha that’s what I said
hahahaha i was gonna post the exact same thing
Well I just replaced the fuel pump with a Walboro.
Car fired up nicely and idled about 1200rpm while it warmed up.
And a couple min later the idle started fluctuating (between 1200 and 1000).
Finally the idle started to drop and then suddenly the car just flat out died.
So I can’t see much on the fuel side I can look at so next up is air-related.
Then electrical I suppose. :dunno:
What a bitch this is…
head to firewall ground
I have not read all of the posts, so i do not know if somebody already suggested this or not.
Check your fuel sending unit, if it is badly corroded, or if the wire terminals are boinked up clean them up and see what happens. If the plastic covers are no longer there, you will most likely see a green goo on the terminals. Scrape that off as best you can. Because of a bad connection your fuel pump may be getting intermittent pulses, so it does not send continuous fuel to the motor.
Hope it helps.
I initially thought it was fuel related, but if there is a shortage in fuel
delivery, either lack of pressure or just not enough volume, i would think
the motor would hesitstate just before it dies.
Problem is, it doesnt really hesitate; it just drops dead. Like someone
stalls the motor.
Gonna look at the FICD today.
Did you change your fuel filter?
Also, did you get a fuel pressure gague?
No and No.
The fuel filter is maybe less then 2yrs old (with less then 19K miles on it).
I’ll pick one on my way home tonight.
I am sorta ruling out fuel as the cause here. Either it’s AIR or
ELECTRICAL related.
Will do the MAF and AAC troubleshoots tonight and see where I get.
hmmm, it may be electrical but the way i see it, (keep in mind that i just redid almost all my wiring, changed my MAFS and TPS, and researched everything electrical on the SR), if the MAFS is messed up, the car will still idle, idle like shit, but idle, it shouldnt make it so that you cant actually start your car.
Try testing the MAFS, get a multimeter out stick a needle into the signal wire, the voltage should be (from signal wire to ground) like .8 with ignition on, 1.7 when idling. … i think (based on SR), should increase with respect to the rpm’s, for actual numbers check the FSM, but if you have numbers around that, then its ohkay, and your MAFS is not the problem.
3 things will make your car not run, no fuel, no air, no spark, you said your ECU read something about the CAS, that controls spark, if its gone, then the car will not spark. Have you pulled your plugs to have a look? they can help distinguish if its getting to much fuel, not enough fuel, not enough spark.
I managed to pull codes 3 times. First two times I believe I got CAS and
MAF and the 3rd time I only got MAF.
My plugs look good; I checked them all.
Lately I’ve noticed the car fires up on startup and holds idle for a while but
eventualy starts fluctuating and then flat out dies.
I’m going to fiddle with any air-related valves first. I highly doubt it’s
the MAF but I guess it’s worth a shot.
Ok, while investigating the air situation, I noticed one of hte hoses near
the back of the mani was slightly unplugged (I pulled on it with very
little effort and it came out with a hissing noise).
Plugged that back in and noticed my BPT valve wasnt connected at the
bottom. Hooked that up too.
But that really didn’t change much. It fires up but then starts to choke
every now and then and idle wasn’t any different then before.
And it still flat out dies sometimes.
One thing I noticed. While idling normaly someitmes, I hear a “slap” like
sound - almost like breaking a twig.
Think this is a detonation/misfiring issue? Or still air related?
it wont detonate at idle, did you even try maf yet?
Check your fuel pump and associated wiring + ground
run your own power to the fuel pump as well to rule that out
most problems other than a fuel pump dying or complete ignition failure would be a problem where hte car would slowly stutter to death, such as intake air valve or mafs.
To be honest, it sounds like your CAS is a little fucked and now and then the ecu looses track of where it is and the bitch’s timing goes way off, and sometimes the car doenst catch itself and it dies. Try to find a new dizzy with cas and see if that fixes your problem, i’m willing to bet it will.
Well I checked fuel press. It was about 42psi on idle. That’s about normal.
I looked around at several hoses behind the valve cover and tried to get
a reading on some of them but didn’t really get anywhere.
The port near the idle air control screw gave about 20in/hg vacuum and
the vac. hose on the FPR gave about 10in/hg. Something ain’t right.
I also disconnected some of them at times while motor was running and
hesitation was still there along.
Also when I am giving throttle and the RPMs are below 2500ish, the motor
shakes and its like there is no power as I’m giving throttle. Eventually it
smooths out.
I haven’t changed the spark plugs yet, but I took one out and held it to
strut tower as I cranked and saw thin orange spark. I guess that’s normal?
BTW, When I had the gauge hooked up to the vac hose where I got
about 10in/hg, I didn’t exactly have an air tight connection to the gauge
so give or take a few in/hg of air leak.
I am stumped. I’m almost ready to take it to a shop but I really don’t
want anyone tinkering with it and totally screwing me up the ass with
bogus service fees.
I can’t think of anything they would start doing that you havn’t thought of yet …
Maybe try a compression check or something just to rule out something with the block being f00bar ? I’m no mechanic odviously
Look for animal chew marks under your engine somewhere. Them squirrels are having 240SX craving.