Woah, I know of two reasons that ive had that happen, 1 with the KA the sparkplug wire was broken but it wasnt visible, car was running on 3 cylinders.
2nd time. when i first installed the SR, turned her over he would barely idle it was stumbly and then just died UNLESS i pressed the throttle and it seemed to go smooth. The reason, one of the injectors was not sealing properly into the intake manifold. So look at your injectors, look at the rubber seals into the manifold, look for cracks, unplug each injector 1 at a time and see if that changes anything. Look for gas stains on the manifold, and also smell for gas.
Any precautions to take befrore removing injector from rail?
I can smell gas but thats because I took the AIV out and the fuel vapour line is dangling in the engine bay (probablly not a good idea in case of spark) :noes:
Whats the reason for that vacuum reading at the FPR?
watch the fuel pressure as it hesitates and dies, if it is 44psi the whole tiem you can rule out the fuel pump. Dont just check it while the cars running, obviously its fine then.
Check your TPS as well if it has trouble with tip in then the TPS is to blame most of the time, it should be 0.45v at idle and about 4v at wot
remember its an intermittant problem that means whatever is fucking up is only fucking up sometimes, these are the hardest problems to find!
Car was idling and running but a couple times it choked and a couple
times it died (not as often as before). This was over a course of maybe a
couple hours.
As I was checking the timing, here’s what I found:
So this leads me to believe that perhaps it’s not the plug wire.
So I switched everything back to original form and bumped my timing up
to about 20 advanced. Car seeemd to run smoother and idle fine. But
I noticed it was running a bit warm (220-230F) - I have no clutch or e. fan
running btw so it’s normal to overheat.
I drove it around the block a few times to let it cool down. It was now at
180F and I slowed down and waited in neutral for a few sec. and the car
just shut off. :shock:
Before I turned in for the night, I checked the tming once more. The wires
were fairly consistent now and #1 cyl wasn’t as erratic as before. Also I
noticed #1 and #4 were the only cylinders where you can see the timing ticks
with the light; #2 and #3 didn’t show the ticks with the timing light.
Video #1
Light hooked to #1 cylinder wire. You can obviousl ysee the erratic pulse
From my list of readings on the topic, Im voting for your maf sensor being pooched. I also have a clutch fan if you want it.
I need to get my grubby mitts on someone elses MAF sensor to see if mine is in fact shot. YOu can also take the purge line off the charcoal canister, plug it, and test drive it like that to see if it works- and if it does then the problem could be a vapor line. The other thing was removing the vacum line from the FPR and plugging it to see what happened.
Do you get a funny power loss as you drive along too…like a hiccup almost… cause I do now and then. And its identical to the time when the intake pipe slipped outof the TB and thus caused the MAF to get an improper signal cause not enough air was going through it, i mean its exactly the same, which is why i think its your MAF, and mine.
double check but i think if the maf is giving NO signal (ie missing or unplugged) it wont rev over 2500 rpm but if its out of whack it will…
cause if its not the maf then i dont have a clue and i will sell my car and get a pickup truck from the 70’s where you can fix problems like this with a flathead screwdriver