sorrry whats the CAS again
maf didnt do it
well my ecu says maf so im goin to get another one
CAS is the Crank Angle Sensor (or Crankshaft Position Sensor).
In the 240sx, it’s inside the distributor.
It basically tells the computer where the crankshaft is and allows the
computer to adjust timing, fuel, accordingly.
Dear mother f*cking God!
Put another distrib in (and it came with wires and rotor+cap).
And my motor still behaves the same.
It was idling and running fine for a bit and then bam, dropped dead.
And as before, I am noticing the only way to get it started is to hold down
the gas pedal and then crank.
The stupid ECU keeps giving error code 55 (which means nothing is wrong).
Air issue somewhere?
COMPRESSION AND/OR LEAKDOWN TEST.
Do it.
Dude, i was just about to point this out.
lol, i was thinking, i wonder if Gonad has down a compresion test.
okay this is scary
my ecu says MAF is bad, if its not that i dont even know where to begin
this is retarded
can you replce the CAS seperately of the distributor?
if i have time tomorrow ill go through teh service manual again and see if there is anything we missed
Twitchy:
My car gave me a MAF and CAS error code. I tried different of both and
the problem is still there. I wouldn’t rely on the error codes too much.
Compression wouldn’t cause the car to idle fine sometimes and then drop
dead other times.
When I do get a stumbling idle, I can fix it by revving up a few times and
it will smooth out.
yes it can
my buddy had a passat and it idled fine but droped a bit sometimes, one day it lost so much power below 3000 rpm it would barely go uphills, and thenn 2 days later it wouldnt start, turns out it had like 80 psi in each cylinder and then sold the car to some gino who wanted the 16v swap
LUCAS IS THE DEVIL BURN THEM AT THE STAKE
one day i will drive to their headquarters and shoot everyone there
okay so im going through the FSM in troubleshooting
first thing
AIR INTAKE LEAK
could there be a leak in the intake tract? It says to “Pinch the “Blow BY” hose” and see if engine speed rises. This points to a leak in the intake
anyone know what the blow by hose is??? cause im stumped, i cant tell from the picture.
next
bla bla bla check injectors, you can take the crank angle sensor and pull the harness off the distributor, then put the key to ON and apparently when you “rotate the CAS shaft by hand, each injector should make an operating sound” if they do not then you would check the wiring and circuitry for the injectors
but i dont know what a fuel injector sounds like
and then
“check fuel vapor”
Unplug the vacum line to the FPR and plug it (the hose) if you can still start the engine then it says “check fuel properties” (this is under unstable idle section still) this FPR thing comes up quite often actually…i dont know how you can check its functioning or whatever but it may be an idea to change it
wonder if they are expensive
go try those things ill post more later
Thanks for hijacking my thread Twitchy.
Well this is a weird one. I got a spare ECU but I didn’t put it in yet.
I took out my a/c fan and put the clutch fan back in.
And for some weird odd reason car has been idling for the longest time,
and I just took it for a spin and it feels as before.
I seriously must hae tweaked something electrical wise, when this
problem first emerged. :noes:
hijacking??
im trying to help!!
Aren’t you having similar problems?
It’s all good. :grouphug:
yes similar probs
- engine dies at least twice before it runs when i start the car and its been off for a certain period of time (40 mins to 80 mins or so)
intermittent sputtering and power loss, more often than not as you accelerate moderately
crappy, stubmly, erratic idle which also sometimes works fine
were in the same boat
and do you know anything about fuel pressure regulators, cause i unplugged the vac hose off mine and the car ran…apparently if you do that its not even supposed to start.
The FPR vacuum hose provides vacuum according to the FPR solenoid.
By removing vac hose, the FPR will not send most of the fuel back to the
fuel tank so you will be pushing more fuel (and most likely running ab it rich).
Nothing wrong with it.
Try this:
Look near the idle air adjusting screw (it’s on the pass. side intake
manifold, near the bottom. You wil see rubber vac hose going to the
manifold.
Disconnect that hose and plug up the port that’s on the manifold. This port
supplies all the vacuum to those regulators (FPR, EGR, BPT).
ive already disabled my EGR…
but really you dont think the FPR is whacked cause honest the manual says that if you take that hose off and it even starts then something is wrong
i need a cigarette
The FPR regulates fuel return. The amount is controlled by the vacuum
line that’s on top of the FPR. What controls the vacuum is hte solenoid
that the hose from teh FPR goes to. The solenoid gets its vacuum from
the main intake passage.
I just went out for a long drive with both the EGR and FPR disconnected.
Ran fine. :dunno:
These things will help you determine whether you have an air leak or
not. Hit me up on MSN if you want to know more.
Welp, just tried another ECU and it…didn’t work. 
Having removed the AIV and Carbon canister some months ago (and
putting about 1500km on the car with that stuff gone), I wonder if that
did any damage?
For the reacord.
What I replaced:
- Fuel pump
- Distributor (with wires, cap, rotor)
- Spark plugs
- TPS (throttle position sensor)
- O2 sensor
- Blocked off EGR
Different parts I’ve tried:
- MAF
- Ignition coil
- ECU
What I’ve tested:
- Fuel pressure
- Vacuum lines (all sealed/good)
- Coolant temp sensor
- AIV/IACV (cleaned)
AIV and Carbon canister would not do anything. Do a compresson test for funzys. and come but 4 injectors off me to replace yours with. I had a cadilac at work that was running like it had a misfire. cheacked plugs, distribtor, wires they were all good. changed injector was like new again.